By Dian Pasquinal Kaur
“To eat good food is to be close to God,” muses Primo (played by Tony Shalhoub) in the 1996 film Big Night. The speech forms the philosophical core of his character who reveres cooking as sacred ritual. That same sense of divine can be found in Galicia, Spain, the final stop of the storied Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route and where land and sea converge in rare abundance.
Recently at Bocado Kuala Lumpur, chefs and cousins Julio Sotomayor and Daniel Guzmán of one-Michelin-starred Nova distilled that sense of place into a quietly assured tasting menu. Rooted in seasonality and restraint, their approach emphasised pure flavour over theatrics, offering a transportive glimpse of Spain’s northwestern edge.
A Culinary Tour
The nine-course journey began with Miso 11,518km, a thoughtful overture that bridged Galicia and KL through a deeply umami Galician consommé, brimming with the essence of the sea. Guests could opt for either cocktail or wine pairings; the latter proved an inspired choice, cutting cleanly through the dishes while amplifying its maritime nuances.
The lead-in trio of smoked turnip greens croquette, cured duck ham and quail egg with fresh curd sure gave a succinct preview of the kitchen’s finesse. The meal progressed to octopus simply dressed in salt, olive oil and Spanish paprika, its tenderness offset by squid ink couscous, cauliflower purée and a subtle sea-foie mousse. A risotto-style course of wild chanterelles enriched by beef jus with king scallop followed, delivering a deeply savoury, heartwarming taste of Galicia.
The monkfish in a Galician seafood broth with cabbage was handled without excess seasoning, allowing each element to articulate its natural clarity. The wagyu short rib proved equally compelling, paired with chestnut — a staple carbohydrate in Ourense, home to Nova — and French beans. The meal concluded on a nostalgic note with a sponge cake “the kind grandmothers make” served with chocolate cream and coffee liqueur, rounded off with a glass of port.
We thank the divine for journeys that lead to tables like this, and it was only fitting that after such a transportive experience, to sit down with the chefs for a brief conversation:
Do you have a favourite Malaysian dish or ingredient?
Julio: My favourite is roti canai, a pure expression of street food technique. The dough, stretched by hand until nearly translucent, achieves a flaky texture that is crisp on the outside and elastic within, unlike anything I’ve tasted. There’s also the pleasure of tearing it apart with your hands and soaking it in a good curry.
Daniel: Malaysia’s diverse culinary influences offered flavours far beyond our usual repertoire. I was particularly taken with Nyonya cuisine, the stewed chicken with morning glory was a standout dish. But bak kut teh is my absolute favourite, its herbal broth and varied meat textures was exceptional. And, of course, the durian was great as well.
Do you see any culinary similarities between Galicia and Kuala Lumpur?
J: Although worlds apart, Galicia and Malaysia share a deep reverence for seafood. In both the Rías Baixas and the Malaysian coast, shellfish reigns supreme. The obsession with freshness is identical; a Galician values a barnacle as much as a resident of Kuala Lumpur values a fresh mud crab.
D: Our approaches to flavour are quite different. We build from the raw ingredient, while here flavour is layered through herbs and spices. Our focus is to highlight the natural taste of the main product, whereas Malaysian cuisine achieves depth through complex seasoning.
What are your top 3 must-try dishes at Bocado?
J: The Galician-style octopus is the standout, served over delicate potato foam with La Vera paprika, its texture beautifully tender and buttery. The garlic prawns capture the essence of Spain while the paellas are ideal for sharing over a good local wine, altogether evoking Spain in KL.
D: The tapas selection offers a comforting taste of home, with croquetas and gambas al ajillo as essentials. The artichoke stood out as a refined starter while the wagyu impressed with its tenderness and balance. The lamb leg, however, was exceptional and easily one of the menu’s highlights. Chef Víctor Hugo Soares Santos’ execution and leadership are remarkable, definitely a talent to watch.
