Military uniforms have long influenced the world of fashion. From the trench coat and peacoat to the bomber jacket, garments originally designed for practicality have found a permanent place in contemporary wardrobes. Their appeal lies in a combination of functionality, durability and an aesthetic that rarely falls out of fashion.
The deck jacket is no exception. Originally developed to protect sailors against harsh conditions at sea, its practical proportions and weather-resistant construction have made it an enduring reference in menswear. Yet while fashion houses have frequently borrowed from military design, few can claim a direct connection to the garments that inspired them.
French luxury house Coulange is one such exception.
A Return To Naval Heritage
Founded in 1918, Coulange established its reputation producing technical outerwear, eventually becoming a supplier to the French armed forces. Among its most recognisable creations was the veste de quart, or deck jacket, worn by generations of sailors serving aboard French Navy vessels.
Short enough to allow freedom of movement on deck yet sufficiently protective against wind, rain and sea spray, the jacket was shaped by necessity rather than fashion.
Now, to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Marine nationale, Coulange has returned to this historic design with a numbered edition of just 100 pieces.
Rather than radically reinventing the silhouette, the house has chosen to preserve its original character while elevating the materials and construction. The result is a contemporary interpretation that remains closely connected to its utilitarian origins.
“This jacket kept three generations of sailors warm before the whole fashion world copied it,” says Pierre-Marie Freulon, president of Coulange. “We did not redesign it: we remade it, with the same gestures, in our own workshop in France, and with the best materials we have ever used.”
Where Function Meets Craftsmanship
The third-generation deck jacket features a water-repellent Italian cotton exterior, complemented by a wool-and-alpaca lining that provides warmth without compromising its functional character.
Each piece is handmade in Coulange’s French workshop, with a hand-sewn interior label identifying its individual number within the collection. Three interchangeable sleeve patches, including an embroidered Marine nationale 400th-anniversary insignia, reference the jacket’s naval associations.
There is also a family dimension to the house’s revival. Relaunched in 2023 under Freulon, Coulange continues to manufacture its garments in a workshop overseen by his mother, Béatrice Plouviez. Its emphasis on in-house production and lifetime repair services reflects a philosophy of clothing intended to remain in use rather than be replaced with each passing season.
In an industry where heritage is frequently invoked as a marketing device, Coulange’s connection to the French Navy offers something more tangible. The deck jacket is not simply an exercise in military-inspired styling, but a return to a garment the house once produced for its original purpose.
And perhaps that is where its contemporary appeal lies. Some designs endure not because they were conceived as fashion statements, but because they were never intended to be fashionable in the first place.
The Coulange × Marine nationale deck jacket is available from 5 November 2026, priced at €1,000 in Europe and US$1,250 in the United States, through Coulange’s official website and selected Marine nationale retail channels.
