By Anandhi Gopinath
It is unfortunate that the afternoon that Maison Martell’s master mixologist Remy Savage spent in Kuala Lumpur leaves almost no footprint – his masterclass was only with select professionals in the field, his cocktails made for just one day, and his recipes still a relative secret. As he talks animatedly about his career in the business during his visit to Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s Bar Trigona, we are handed one of his signature cocktails, Finalo 2.0, made from a combination of Martell’s Noblige, Verjus, and mid-roast syrup. It is light, glides down the throat with dangerous ease and provides additional dimension to the cognac, considered one of Martell’s most versatile spirits.
Bars should be fun. I don’t go to bars to be clever – Remi Savage
Named the World’s Most Imaginative Bartender in 2014, the Best European Mixologist in 2018 and the Best International Bartender of the Year in 2022, Savage is famous for his unconventional approaches to designing both the bars he works at and the menus in them, courtesy of his qualifications in philosophy. There are several career pathways outlined for someone with this degree, but conceptualising bars has never been on this list – until Savage came along, of course. “I worked in a bar to pay my way through university, and it was a job I really loved. But I didn’t want to waste my philosophy degree either, so I just put two and two together.”
Bars Should Be Fun
It was a good call. After spending some time travelling and bartending across the world, Savage settled in Paris and became the face of Little Red Door, where he playfully questioned the drinking experience, implementing philosophical notions in his processes. During this time, he introduced revolutionary menus, such as one that used art to describe the drink instead of words, and even put his team through six months of cultural and social experiments with a drinks list inspired by applied architecture.
After a stint in London pursuing his ‘dream job’ at the helm of Artesian in The Langham, London, he returned to the French capital in 2019 to find the cocktail scene really starting to flourish. In the city’s edgy 10th arrondissement, as bartender and creative director of Le Syndicat and La Commune bars, Savage has been instrumental in democratising and demystifying the cocktail experience for a wider audience.
We get passed around some of the menus Savage has designed in the past, which provide an insight into the way he thinks. The art and architecture ones from his time at Little Red Door are fascinating enough, but a clear favourite is a curious contraption that debuted at Artesian. A shapeshifting sculpture in the form of a double-helix, it magically fans out when spun into something fern-like, each frond bearing the name of a drink. Not particularly practical as far as menus go – a simpler printed version was given to those who just want to get on with it – but it is undeniably absorbing to faff around with. “Bars should be fun. I don’t go to bars to be clever,” Savage grins.
Like all good chefs, the French-Irish award-winning mixologist believes that the strength of a good cocktail lies in its ingredients and how those flavours come together in a single sip. Savage is unabashedly minimalist, with his creations consisting of precious few components, but it is a formula that he has truly mastered. “I don’t really understand drinks with 10 different things in it,” Savage says, pointing out that complexity can be overwhelming even for seasoned cocktail connoisseurs. “I used to think that my palate was unsophisticated, but the Michelin-starred chefs I work with don’t really get the multiple ingredients either.”
Martell’s master mixologist Remy Savage in the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur’s Bar Trigona.
Understanding Cognac
His partnership with Martell isn’t particularly surprising, considering his intensely creative and cerebral style, not to mention that passion for quality ingredients. “Martell approached me about two years ago,” Savage recalls. “What was interesting is that I usually get to work with a variety of brands, so it was refreshing to sharpen my focus on a single spirit, one loyal partner. It also lets me dive into the world of cognac as a whole and Martell in particular, which lets me keep learning. Actually, we both learn from each other, which is brilliant.”
Savage had worked with Martell’s award-winning spirits before, but the partnership gave him the chance to better understand the complexity and diversity of cognac. “I am amazed at how much innovation can exist despite all the limitations,” he marvels, referring to the strict French laws that govern cognac’s production. “I like that Martell is willing to take risks, to strike this delicate balance between respectfully looking back at the past and always innovating for the future.”
Related: In the Blood – Martell Heritage Director Jacques Menier’s lifelong attachment to cognac
Savage works a lot with Noblige, a cognac with a true spring in its step. A superbly stylish spirit which means nobility carries obligation, its bottle’s contemporary design carries strong cues of elegance and sophistication. It reflects the strong and smooth liquid inside, which carries notes of vanilla, caramelised grape, cedar and oak. There were few other cocktails Savage served up with Martell’s Noblige cognac as the star. 2 Bees (Martell Noblige, honey distillate, lemon and Peychaud’s Bitters) paid homage to the stingless bee after which Bar Trigona is named; Kazimir (cognac, yuzu tomato, ponzu, vanilla and yoghurt absinthe blance) was an explosion of both sweet and savoury flavours; while the sleep-defying Gnac & Coffee was a simple combination of Noblige, syrup and drop coffee.
“I like the Noblige because of its interesting age profile – its older than a VSOP, but you get that vivacity of a young cognac, but the maturity of a more grown-up liquid. I love that contrast, and it makes designing cocktails a more interesting experience.”
For tips on how to enjoy your cognac, visit martell.com
