Tenderloin
Whenever you hear about a menu that defines itself as a reimagination of timeless French Classics, the first thought that comes to mind is whether this is another attempt at creating a fusion of French cooking with Asian influences. But this is not the case at Entier.
Their new menu, launched in April this year, stays true to traditional French classics, and when they say “reimagined”, they mean an interpretation of classic dishes using local ingredients as a way of staying true to their sustainable ‘nose-to-tail’ philosophy.
Chef Romain
Entier (meaning ‘whole’ in French) is well-known for this approach. Helmed by Executive Chef Masashi Horiuchi and Head Chef Romain Fabre, the Michelin Selected restaurant is known for crafting dishes presented with an artistic expression and a simplicity that lets the ingredients do the talking.
Chef Fabre, who hails from the South of France, crafts a love letter to his homeland, bringing the diner on a journey through some of its finest gourmet regions, from Brittany to the Cote d’Azur to Burgundy and in between. Inspired by his childhood memories growing up in a food-loving family, the menu highlights classics such as the classic Bouef Rossini, which is reimagined in Entier’s tenderloin and foie gras.
The tasting menu starts off with five amuse bouche with a focus on seafood. Malaysian-grown Tanjung Malim caviar is the highlight here, placed on top of a sweet potato blini and Crème fraîche. The crowd favourite is the smoked fish roe, which comes in a cornet made of trout roe, topped with egg mimosa and tarama cream.
Lobster Niçoise
For starters, Fabre gives a nod to the South of France with the Lobster Niçoise salad, which sounds a bit unexciting at first but I was immediately proven wrong at first bite. With generous poached lobster bits, anchoïade sauce on top of romaine lettuce, this is not your usual Niçoise salad.
Then there’s the escargot with a dash of garlic puree, pickled chanterelles and fresh button mushroom, an ode to the traditional Burgundy dish. The grilled turbot with a side of blue mussel, local caviar, nama nori cream, champagne foam and confit lemon, is sensational, with each bite bringing a different flavour.
Escargot
And yet, we haven’t even reached the mains. I opted for the beef belly and sauerkraut which rather sounds more like a German dish. The French, in fact, are also known for their version of the pickled delicacy, called choucroute, famous in the region of Alsace, up in Northeastern France, which borders Germany and Switzerland.
Beef Belly & Sauerkraut
The sauerkraut complements the braised beef short ribs beautifully and the side of grilled beef jambon adds an interesting layer to the dish. To end, there’s the pineapple sorbet with harum manis mango compote and coconut espuma followed with fig compote and fig sorbet.
It’s already been about six years since Entier first opened its doors and the respect for traditional French cuisine is something they have impressively stayed true to. It’s no surprise why they view their menu as a “living breathing entity, constantly evolving to reflect the changing seasons.”
But one thing is certain, they won’t be calling themselves “fusion” dining here. This is 100 percent wholehearted traditional French cooking with a dash of artistic flair.
