Dennis Malcolm OBE
Few in the worldwide spirits industry share the whisky-making lineage of Dennis Malcolm. Born on the Distillery grounds and started his whisky career in 1961 as an apprentice cooper at 15 years old. Malcolm was transfixed by casks and their intricacies, as well as the whisky maturing within them.
With the longest tenure at The Glen Grant, Malcolm plays a crucial role in preserving the extensive heritage and legacy of the distillery, as the whisky industry itself boasts an exceptional history shaped by those who came before and made significant contributions. His responsibilities include not only safeguarding the traditional aspects but also exploring innovative avenues, conducting experiments, and broadening the range of offerings. The creation of new expressions, such as the Glen Grant 70-year-old Devotion, exemplifies his passion for the work at The Glen Grant.
The Glen Grant Devotion
The Glen Grant Devotion, a 70-year-old single malt, is showcased as a meticulously crafted sculptural masterpiece. Drawing inspiration from Queen Elizabeth II’s seven decades on the throne, this whisky is a homage to the late Queen’s unwavering dedication to nature. Crafted by Master Distiller Dennis Malcolm OBE, John Galvin, and Brodie Nairn, only seven distinct decanters were made, each individually hand-blown and shaped like a gem.
These decanters feature a wooden sculpture made from a fallen elm tree, adorned with floral engravings inspired by the Queen’s favourite flowers. During an online auction conducted by Sotheby’s, Decanter Number One was sold, achieving a record-breaking amount of £81,250 (US$101.3k), and the funds were contributed to the Royal Scottish Forestry Society. The other six decanters are currently on sale in designated markets.
Malcolm describes this release as a splendid creation that symbolizes a lifetime of character and legacy.
In a conversation with The Peak, Malcolm delves into the intricacies of distillation, the creation of spirits, and The Glen Grant’s mastery of developing distinctive flavours.
Glen Grant has a long and storied history. What do you believe sets Glen Grant whisky apart from other Scotch whiskies?
“Our two founding principles: innovation and heritage, and this is so important in The Glen Grant’s whisky. We were founded by innovators who changed how our whisky was made, but they also had such reverence for tradition and heritage, and it’s this exact balance that I believe creates such fantastic single malt with a distinctive character and a quality that you’ll find across our range, from our youngest to most matured expressions. Not many distilleries out there can guarantee that character and quality across everything they do.”
Can you provide an insight into your approach to blending and selecting casks to create Glen Grant expressions?
“Cask quality is so important to creating such a fantastic single malt. All our casks are of the highest quality and are handpicked and used a maximum of three times to make sure that every drop of The Glen Grant is a beautiful, evocative, single malt. Every little thing we do on the journey of the spirit contributes to the final product, therefore there’s no detail too tiny to be important in our production. I maintain that even down to the microscopic cracks in our copper stills, it all contributes towards The Glen Grant’s unique character and consistent quality throughout maturation. Our production method, including our tall, slender pot stills and double purification during distillation, creates a beautifully light flavour new make spirit with a fruity character. This character in our spirit lends itself beautifully to maturation and is present in all of our whisky, from younger to older single expressions, highlighting The Glen Grant’s quality and consistency at any age.”
The Glen Grant Devotion is the oldest whisky ever released by the distillery. Can you walk us through the production process and maturation period of Glen Grant Devotion?
“Devotion was made when we used coal-fired stills as well as running through the purifiers that we still use to this day, and the cask was filled in 1953, the coronation year. Since then the whisky has been in its cask, developing beautifully. The liquid itself, I describe as being akin to the beautiful shiny ruby red colour from the inside of a freshly fallen chestnut, highlights the consistency of The Glen Grant as it matures.
Despite being 70 years old, the beautiful character of our whisky is the hero in every sip and there is no overpowering oakiness, instead a hint, a very delicate smoke, that brings the beautiful notes of sultanas, rich fruitiness, dark spice and orange zest to life even more. I call it ‘liquid Christmas cake’. Everything we created for Devotion, from the beautiful decanters, each inspired by a decade of her service, to the liquid itself, is in complete reverence to the 70 years of the Queen’s service, her Devotion.”
Given its rarity and historical significance, can you share any interesting anecdotes related to the creation and discovery of The Glen Grant Devotion?
“Personally for me, Devotion holds a special place amongst the range of expressions as its origins began the same year the Queen herself was throned. In fact, most of my life has been spent under the Queen’s leadership and I had the honour of being awarded OBE in 2016, coinciding with her majesty’s 90th birthday.
The intention to honour the queen was a long work in progress. When it came down to how we could connect Devotion to Her Majesty, the idea of honouring her with momentous flowers throughout her reign came to mind as a link to The Glen Grant’s unmistakable floral notes. With the late queen’s commitment to her people, it’s only fitting that we honour her service by inviting master carpenter John Galvin and glass sculptor Brodie Nairn of GLASSSTRORM – both of whom, were intentionally approached as reputed Scottish craftsmen for a truly remarkable tribute that encapsulates Scotland.”
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How does the extended ageing contribute to its flavour profile and complexity?
“The cask amplified The Glen Grant’s character, creating a more intense flavour without being overpowered by oakiness. This balance was the first thing I looked for and it showcases the exceptional capability The Glen Grant’s spirit has for maturation. The Glen Grant’s capacity to improve in aroma and taste as the years go on is remarkable. I don’t think it will ever stop appreciating in quality as it matures, Devotion is a testament to this, and it has made me more excited about exploring older expressions in the future, that’s for sure.”
The distillery serves as a hub of innovation, constantly introducing fresh expressions and venturing into uncharted territories with a commitment to further exploration. The limits of what can be achieved are far from being reached.
In light of the success of Glen Grant Devotion, there is an anticipation that the distillery will venture into more long, aged, and rare releases in the future. “We still produce this exceptional character whisky today; still using the stills and purifiers installed in the 1880s by ‘The Major’ Grant. It’s my job along with the amazing team at the Glen Grant to ensure this character continues for future whisky drinkers to enjoy a consistently beautiful single malt.”
The Glen Grant Distillery
Choosing a favourite family member is impossible, and similarly, Malcolm believes there’s never a wrong way to savour whisky as long as it’s in good company and accompanied by a delightful setting, wherever that may be in the world. One of his preferred methods, however, is by indulging in a dram of The Glen Grant directly from the spirit safe situated in the distillery’s enchanting Garden of Splendours. There’s nothing quite like it.
