by Charmian Leong
You don’t sell a Bovet timepiece; you explain one. At least, that’s how brand owner Pascal Raffy sees it when it comes to the creations of this two-century-old manufacture.
Indeed, Bovet’s timepieces are often so lavish in detail that they first make your eyes widen in awe — and then water when you see the accompanying price tag. An explanation is welcome for seasoned collectors — for newcomers, it’s essential.
To truly appreciate Bovet’s marvellous intricacies, one must understand its fascinating history. In 1822, Edouard Bovet founded his eponymous brand in Fleurier, Switzerland, specialising in highly decorated pocket watches. The story differs from many of its venerable competitors because Edouard focused on bringing his wares to China, where they became immensely popular among the local elite.
Not only were the enamel paintings and intricate gem-setting highly prized, but the watches also stood out for being the first to use exhibition case backs, allowing the movements’ beauty to be similarly admired.
Tragically, Bovet suffered the fate of many pocket watch-focused brands when wristwatches rose to prominence in the late 19th century and slipped into obscurity.
The second coming
Serendipitously, it was rescued in 2001 by an unexpected investor — former pharmaceutical businessman Pascal Raffy. Raffy is himself a passionate collector of rare timepieces and remembers the beauty of early Bovet timepieces from his grandfather’s collection.
“For three hours every Sunday, my grandfather used to teach my cousins and me the beauty of watchmaking. We were young, and we used to think it was boring,” says Raffy with a laugh. “But when I was 15, I began to understand. It was about art, craftsmanship, patience, and the human beings behind it all. How is it possible for such a small thing to contain hundreds of components and to express time?”
By age 38, Raffy was happily retired after helping to grow Synthelabo into the third-largest pharmaceutical group in France. But destiny had other plans. Bovet’s then-owners were looking for a new investor in 2000. By then, Raffy had long been enchanted by Bovet’s early pieces, calling them “jewels indicating time”.
“When I learnt that the house of Bovet needed help, I decided to give it a chance to become a true facility like it was in the 19th century.”
In 2001, he purchased the majority share of Bovet; by 2003, he was the sole owner. Three years later, he was offered the opportunity to buy a castle, the Chateau de Motiers, which he only agreed to do after learning it was once owned by the Bovet family. Destiny, again.
With the Chateau as Bovet headquarters, Raffy continued his quest to transform the brand into a fully integrated manufacture. Today, Bovet has a diverse portfolio of facilities, allowing the brand to make and decorate its movements, dials, and cases.
“We had 48 people on the team by the end of 2005. By 2006, we had 153,” he adds. “My will was always to preserve the patrimony of this exceptional house and pay respects to its history.”
This deep respect also extends to the people who work for him. “I can give you the names and surnames of all my employees,” he says plainly. “Your people need to believe what you tell them — the reality of your feelings, the philosophy you want to build with them, that you truly rely on them, and that they are part of your family. That is the difference between a company and a house.”
Wings of change
And as a house, Bovet has recently welcomed a new partner in Pacific Time, a wholly owned distribution arm of Singapore-based Cortina Holdings, giving it exclusive distribution rights in Southeast Asia. “It’s two family-owned houses coming together. We share the same vision, voice, and respect for collectors. We are delighted to work with them and to build the Bovet audience together.”
The autonomy of being an independent brand — and a full-fledged manufacture, no less — means Raffy’s horological dreams can be freely manifested. The style is unabashedly baroque, the complications grand and numerous, and the movements often packed to the rafters with innovations and patents — all of which reflect Raffy’s indifferent approach to subtlety.
Yet, his watchmaking ethos is also grounded in thoughtfulness. He developed the brand’s signature patented Amadeo convertible case system as a tribute to Bovet’s heritage, enabling the timepiece to transform into a pocket watch, pendant, or table clock.
Other models feature the Writing Slope case, inspired by Raffy’s vintage writing desk. Slanted from the top, this design provides an inclined display, making it easier to read without the wearer having to tilt their wrist significantly.
The brand’s latest novelty is perhaps the perfect introduction to its world. The Bovet Recital 28 Prowess 1 is the world’s first watch to account for daylight saving time (DST) in a world time watch. Each of the 24 cities/time zones is represented on a roller, with four positions (for UTC, AST, EAS, and EWT) that can be adjusted by pressing the crown.
Because Bovet believes that anything worth doing is worth overdoing, the timepiece also boasts a flying tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and a power reserve of 10 days. The movement comprises 744 components, and every single one has been hand-finished. The plate is adorned with perlage and Cotes de Geneve.
Understanding a Bovet timepiece takes time, but recognising one does not. “Sometimes I see gentlemen wearing nice watches, but I get confused and mistake the brand,” he quips. “But with Bovet, you are never confused. It’s clear, and it’s rare.”