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Photo: Switzerland Tourism
As I peered down onto the snow-capped valley on the Swiss Alps from the Sphinx Terrace at 3,571m above sea level on Jungfraujoch, the frenetic jostling of 30 other tourists faded away. The white peaks looked satin soft, punctuated by black rock peeking through.
On the horizon, the Alestch Glacier reached out towards the French and German border, meeting the clouds in the distance. It was a view undoubtedly deserving of its UNESCO World Heritage title.
It was springtime in May when Switzerland Tourism invited me. In two weeks, we traversed through six cantons via train (and sometimes boat) with the First Class Swiss Travel Pass and SBB Door-to-Door Luggage Service in an ambitious itinerary showcasing Swiss train engineering prowess and dependability.
Statuesque and ancient
Switzerland is famed for many things: abundant natural beauty, reliable banks, modern-day chocolates, luxury watchmaking, its hospitality and culinary schools, and, of course, cheese fondue.
Eiger Express tricable as it sets off from Grindelwald Terminal. (Photo: Switzerland Tourism)
Noted for maintaining armed neutrality for more than two centuries, it has become one of the most developed countries in the world, flourishing in a long period of peace. More importantly, it has continued to preserve its historical buildings and artefacts dating back to medieval times, turning its cities and towns into unique time capsules.
On Europe’s highest point, the ancient peaks of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfraujoch have modernised the towns of Interlaken and Grindelwald. The sprawling Grindelwald Terminal is the newest in the Alps and is the starting point for the Eiger Express tricable gondola, an intimate introduction to the Eiger’s staggering North face as it climbs up to Eigergletscher station in 15 minutes.
The building of station Eigerwand in 1903. (Photo: Jungfraubahnen 2019)
The rest of Jungfrau Railways, however, has kept its old-world charm. The unevenly chipped stone walls of the cavernous tunnels along the cogwheel train route down to the picturesque Kleine Scheidegg station haven’t changed much since Italian workers handpicked and blasted their way through in the early 1900s.
On the GoldenPass Express, a ride included in the Swiss Travel Pass, you can ride past rolling fields spotted with edelweiss flowers and traditional wooden houses. It seems like the countryside has withstood the sands of time, too.
GoldenPass Express as it glides through the countryside in Vaud. (Photo: Switzerland Tourism)
Famous guests and residents
We get off at Montreux, a resort town on the banks of the enormous Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman, depending on who you ask). The largest lake in Switzerland, the placid waters have long attracted the rich and famous the likes of Freddie Mercury, authors Mary and Percy Shelley and Lord Byron, and Charlie Chaplin.
A Belle Epoque boat on Lake Geneva. (Photo: Switzerland Tourism)
One can understand the creatives and intellectuals who settled by the lake to get inspired or find respite. The Beau-Rivage Palace, steeped in 116 years of history, is in Ouchy, Lausanne. It is a neo-Baroque institution whose grand halls have played host to diplomatic meetings, royal banquets, and numerous celebrities. In 2023, after a refresh by architect Pierre-Yves Rochon, it was named Best Hotel of the Year by Gault-Millau.
With such a long history of hosting the bourgeoisie, it’s no surprise that world-class hospitality is synonymous with the Swiss. The world’s first hospitality school was established here in 1893. Today, students come from around the world to learn from chefs and managers who’ve worked at the top hotels and restaurants.
Beau-Rivage Palace at Lausanne on the waterfront of Lake Geneva. (Photo: Beau-Rivage Palace)
Over in the Le Bouveret campus at the Culinary Arts Academy, part of the Swiss Education Group alliance is a more intentional archiving by Anton Mosimann OBE DL, a decorated Swiss chef, restaurateur, and somewhat of a hoarder.
The Mosimann Collection is a staggering body of memorabilia he’s kept from his illustrious career at the Dorchester Hotel in London and as a private chef to the British Royal Family. It even includes artwork and recipes from the 16th century.
Insulated and thriving wine culture
Up in Vevey, the old charming town is home to the three-week-long Winegrowers’ Festival that occurs every 20 years or once in a generation. Listed a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016, it’s been organised by the Confrérie des Vignerons (Brotherhood of Winegrowers) since 1797 and celebrates winemaking with elaborate performances, food, music, and, of course, wine from the famed vineyard terraces of Lavaux nearby that date back to the 11th century.
The Winegrowers’ Festival is a listed UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity occasion. (Photo: Samuel Rubio, Switzerland Tourism)
Introduced by the Romans in the 1st century, wine is consumed liberally by the Swiss. On many occasions, we’re reminded that they love drinking it so much that most of it is kept for the local market. Only one per cent of Swiss wine is exported.
In Jussy, Geneva, is Château du Crest, a castle from the 13th century that has been repurposed as the Micheli family home. The surrounding 20-ha houses a vineyard, pig farm, and guest rooms that offer a slice of the tranquil countryside about 15 minutes away from the city.
Here, tradition meets innovation as typical Swiss grape varieties — Pinot Noir and Chasselas — are cultivated alongside newer, more resistant vines such as the Divico and Divona.
Remnants of history
Even in the modern business capital of Zurich, there are glimpses of the past. We ventured into the old town, where cobbled pavements and a maze of alleys run through small boutiques.
The old town at Chur, Graubünden. (Photo: Switzerland Tourism)
The Fraumünster Church, an iconic landmark known for its Marc Chagall stained glass windows, also holds a crypt in its basement that dates back to the 9th century. Deeper into the heart of the area is Rindermarkt (Cattle Market), a mediaeval alleyway where Swiss poet and novelist Gottfried Keller grew up and has one of the last few gas-lit street lamps.
But none of our stops in Switzerland beat the quiet town of Chur in Graubünden. The oldest town in the country, Chur seems rightfully content, balancing the 21st century with the past. Much of the town’s historical attractions come from its geographical position — a meeting of crossroads from Italy through the Alps.
On our city tour, we get ushered into the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary, built between 1150 and 1272. Pushing through the heavy iron doors, we walk past stone columns decorated with Romanesque sculptures and walls covered in paintings in various stages of fading. In the presence of such historied architecture, it’s not that difficult to imagine ourselves as pilgrims venturing in looking for shelter or prayer a hundred years ago.
Places to stay
Sleep in history
Photo: Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa
Go back in time when you stay at quaint hotels such as the Romantik Hotel Grindelwald and Hotel Stern Chur, which have kept their charming wood fixtures with modest creature comforts. More luxurious and upscale are hotels like Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa in Interlaken, Beau-Rivage Palace at Lausanne, Hotel des Trois Couronnes in Vevey, and The Woodward Geneva.
Housed in buildings over a century old within the same walls that have hosted royalty and celebrities, they’ve been renovated and fitted with opulent modern furnishings with a touch of European old-world charm.
Modern digs
Photo: Ultima Geneva Grand Villa
A sprawling 21,527 sq ft property with eight bedrooms, a hammam, jacuzzi, sauna, and a swimming pool, the Ultima Geneva Grand Villa is fully equipped to host larger groups or parties. A psychotherapist and private chef are also available for hire. Park Hyatt Zurich, on the other hand, is located in the city centre and more compact with all the bells and whistles required for a short trip or business visit.
To get around
Swiss Airlines
Newly launched Premium Economy seats are now available for direct flights from Singapore to Zurich and vice versa. Roomier and with a reclining seat that might require some manoeuvring to figure out, it’s a definitive upgrade from Economy.
Swiss travel system
The most sustainable way to see the sights, 90 per cent of the railway system runs on hydropower, including the famed Glacier Express that climbs through the Alps. For tourists, the Swiss Travel Pass allows access to unlimited train, bus, and boat rides, including the scenic GoldenPass Express from Interlaken to Montreux and CGN Belle Epoque boats on Lake Geneva.
