by Grace Ma
The storm came down, thick drops slicing through a grey canvas. Coconut trees swayed vigorously while the roar of the ocean was thunderous and foreboding. With a gin and tonic in one hand and a book in my lap, I watched this wild show snugly in a soft linen robe on the sofa.
Being in the moment can seem impossible when we are overachieving travellers. Nevertheless, I did just that on a recent trip to Bali, where I stayed at several Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) properties.
Foliage-swathed paradise
At Lost Lindenberg, tropical rainstorms can be so awe-inspiring that they beg an audience, especially from my “treehouse” suite, one of only eight. Two of them stand atop each of the four elevated towers connected by a wooden walkway.
A two-hour drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport, the Lindenberg hotel collection’s fifth and latest opening is tucked into a sleepy town called Pekutatan on Bali’s west coast. The foliage-swathed paradise can only be reached after passing through the hidden entrance in a neon installation and then walking down a stone path through a garden filled with plants, from ferns and bromeliads to banyan trees.
Right after that dramatic storm, I had my first surf lesson on its black lava sand beach, where I also took misty, contemplative walks. Despite not mastering the push-stand-balance stance and drinking a lot of seawater that day, I surfed successfully on Kuta Beach a few days later. Funny how being in a foreign land inspires courage to try new things.
One morning, I hiked to a secluded river where we frolicked in the water and had a natural hydrotherapeutic massage from mini waterfalls. As I enjoyed Lost Lindenberg’s delicious banana bread, specially packed for our excursion, I soaked my feet in the cool water and enjoyed the tranquility. Our guide Putu owns the land we trekked through and knowing the hotel channels business to locals was assuring.
Lost Lindenberg also takes connection among strangers to a brave new level by serving plant-based meals at a communal table. It could have been a hit or miss during our two-night stay, but, thankfully, our fellow guests — a family with three young children and a duo on their annual getaway — were mostly friendly and the food itself easily sparked conversations.
Rather than dining on meat substitutes, we ate only the real deal sourced mostly from local organic farms. Think grilled mushrooms with pickled onions, zucchini blossom tempura, and tempe, all served with a variety of Balinese sauces and sambals.