Why Search The World For One-of-a-Kind Jewels When Ultraluxe 2024 Brings Them To You?

Among the many independent luxury brands are these six — from California to London to India — that we shortlisted for collectors looking for something different.
by Yanni Tan

Photo: K. Brunini

The annual niche luxury fair Ultraluxe is back again. For its third iteration this year, it returns bigger than before with a 10-day programme featuring over 120 jewellery, fashion, spirits, watches, leisure, and lifestyle brands from around the globe.

A major component of the festival is JeweLuxe, which runs in two editions: the first presenting established houses from October 4 to 8; and the second for emerging brands with ready-to-wear pieces from October 9 to 13.

While jewellery lovers may have attended the fair previously in its familiar Tent@Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza, this year’s show promises several new faces, as well as a special showcase named The Protagonist, which spotlights labels that champion mindful, responsible practices.

From the line-up of masterclasses and panel discussions, several have also caught our attention. Two masterclasses will touch on contemporary jewel art and vintage jewellery respectively. One panel discussion features the topic of sustainable luxury, while another focuses on elevating one’s personal style with jewels, and is presented by jewellery influencer, journalist and maker Katerina Perez.

For purposeful shopping, we zoom in on six independent brands that are first-timers at Jeweluxe or totally worth a visit.

1. K. Brunini: Organic beauty

K. Brunini’s wild and colourful Spirit Animal collection (Photo: K. Brunini)

For over three decades, Katey Brunini has drawn inspiration from the natural world, transforming raw elements into extraordinary pieces of fine jewellery. Her California-based brand, K. Brunini Jewels, is celebrated for its sense of magical realism, symbology, and unconventional blend of materials that contrasts precious metals and diamonds with unexpected elements of wood, bone, and coral. A multiple award-winner, its designs have also been exhibited in a slew of prestigious exhibitions at the likes of Carnegie Museum and Art Basel.

2. Akillis: The Parisian rebel

Akillis’ Animal Tattoo Lion white and black diamond necklace (Photo: Akillis)

Founded in 2007 by Caroline Gaspard, Akillis is a French jewellery brand that breaks “the codes of Place Vendome”, where its flagship boutique is located within immediate vicinity. The founder’s vision is one of audacity and adrenaline, challenging the boundaries of traditional adornments by creating pieces that are unisex and universally appealing. Merging sleek lines and bold forms, they are made using a blend of age-old craftsmanship and modern technology.

3. Thelma West: Quiet, conscious luxury

Versatile, personalised jewels is a signature of Thelma West (Photo: Thelma West)

Favoured by celebrities and featured in various exhibitions by institutions such as Sotheby’s and Kensington Palace, Thelma West is a bespoke London-based jewellery brand that began in Lagos in 2012. Beyond being a diamond expert and a designer, its founder is an advocate for sustainability and a women-centric work environment. Every piece is custom-made to emphasise quality over quantity, and sometimes, recycled stones from old or damaged jewellery are also given new life.

4. Fope: The gold innovator

The Full Moon collection of supple jewels from Fope (Photo: Fope)

A renowned name originating from Vincenza, Italy’s capital of gold, in 1929, Fope is back at Jeweluxe for the second time and deserves a closer look for its gold mastery. The brand is most notable for its distinctive flexible 18k gold mesh design, which is achieved through the Flex’it system of tiny gold springs that imparts exceptional flexibility and wearability. More than technical innovation, Fope is also a flagbearer of Italy’s long heritage of distinctively bold designs and goldsmithing expertise.

5. Tallin Jewels: India meets Italy

Tallin Jewels’ Sharp Form bracelets fuse ancient Indian craftsmanship with a contemporary vibe (Photo: Tallin Jewels)

Rooted in both India and Italy, Tallin is a jewellery brand that draws upon a rich family heritage of gemstone trading and artistic craftsmanship. Founded by Akshat Ghiya, who spent his formative years shuttling between Jaipur and Padua, Tallin embodies a fusion of tradition and modernity. Expect fresh interpretations of time-honoured techniques and aesthetics, the use of unconventional stones and cuts, and superb craftsmanship by skilled artisans working in the Ghiya family atelier.

6. Unsaid: Forefront of sustainable jewels

Unsaid rides at the forefront of the wave of ethical and green jewellery making (Photo: Unsaid)

Parisian brand Unsaid is a specialist in crafting fine jewels with an emphasis on environmental responsibility. With the rigorous use of lab-grown diamonds, recycled 18k gold, renewable energy, recycled water, and natural gases in its production chain,  it ensures that each creation is carbon-neutral and has minimal impact on the planet. The house’s ethos also extends beyond sustainability — with contemporary, ready-to-wear collections inspired by human emotions and significant life moments.

This story was first published on The Peak Singapore.

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