by Karen Tee
When it comes to design wizardry and an unparalleled demonstration of bijoux savoir-faire, one can always trust Cartier to deliver. For its latest high jewellery collection, Le Voyage Recommence, the maison goes on a high-octane journey through its own creative hallmarks and design codes, resulting in an extensive collection of over 80 exquisitely crafted pieces of bling.
Instead of adhering to a singular theme, this wide-ranging collection delves into an eclectic array of Cartier’s stylistic keystones, such as geometric lines, chromatic colour palettes, and a celebration of global cultures.
This exploratory spirit can be seen most evidently in the Girih necklace, which offers a graphic interpretation of Islamic art and architecture styles. With a refined interplay of lines, motifs, and symmetry that evoke grand arabesques and the elegant use of Cartier’s blue and green “peacock” colour scheme — seen here in the form of Zambian emeralds and turquoise stones that are cut to measure — this showstopper offers a contemporary take on a beloved aesthetic.
For a high-tech take on precision graphics, check out the Sama necklace, which was created with the use of computer-aided design (CAD) to engineer its three-dimensional structure down to the nearest millimetre. Featuring a swirling series of curves and counter-curves inspired by the robes of whirling dervishes, the necklace is composed around a 19.27-carat Ceylon sapphire, with every tilt and proportion carefully calculated to ensure the necklace sits as close to the skin as possible.
Then there is the Claustra necklace — a masterclass in using a monochromatic palette to dramatic effect. Here, a set of shield diamonds, including a standout 4.02-carat specimen, alternates with onyx and a complex necklace lattice, resulting in a geometrically compelling black-and-white design that the maison popularised in the early 20th century.
This sparkler also conceals another cool Cartier secret; it has been carefully constructed to be separated into two necklaces. With three statement looks for the price of one, that is truly design genius hard at work.