In luxury watchmaking, partnerships are often viewed with scepticism. Too frequently, they manifest as cosmetic exercises—new dial colours, limited production runs and the promise of exclusivity. Yet the most compelling collaborations are rarely about novelty. Instead, they create a dialogue between distinct creative philosophies, allowing a familiar object to be seen anew.
That is the thinking behind The Double Signed Program, a new initiative from Zenith that invites independent watchmakers to reinterpret one of the Manufacture’s most historically significant creations: the G.F.J., powered by the legendary Calibre 135.
For the programme’s inaugural edition, Zenith turned to Naoya Hida, founder of Naoya Hida & Co. and one of the most respected voices in contemporary independent watchmaking. The result is a limited edition of just ten pieces, but the significance extends beyond rarity. More importantly, it represents a meeting of two cultures united by a shared reverence for precision, restraint and craftsmanship.
“Watchmaking has always evolved through exchange: between cultures, crafts and passion,” says Benoit de Clerck, Chief Executive Officer of Zenith Watches. “The intention was never simply to reinterpret our icons, but to create a genuine dialogue between two distinct visions of watchmaking.”
A Shared Language Of Restraint
The partnership feels particularly apt given Hida’s long-standing admiration for the Calibre 135, widely regarded as one of the most accomplished chronometer movements of the twentieth century.
Originally developed during the golden age of observatory timing competitions, the movement earned a reputation for extraordinary precision and remains one of the most celebrated calibres in Zenith’s history. Re-engineered in 2025 for the G.F.J. collection, it now forms the foundation of this latest collaboration.
Rather than radically altering the watch, Hida approached it with characteristic restraint. The 39mm platinum case houses a solid silver dial featuring hand-engraved typography filled with Japanese urushi lacquer, while subtle design cues reference the aesthetic codes of his own NH Type 2A.
The approach reflects a broader Japanese design philosophy: refinement through reduction rather than addition.
“I have been captivated by the Calibre 135 since discovering it in the 1990s,” says Hida. “The idea was to capture the atmosphere and spirit of the Calibre 135 era in a modern way. I aimed for something restrained, yet with deep dimensionality.”
In an industry increasingly crowded with spectacle, such restraint feels almost radical. Every element serves a purpose, from the engraved signatures to the handcrafted details visible through the sapphire caseback.
The result is less a redesign than a considered conversation between past and present.
Heritage As A Living Practice
The launch also reflects a broader shift within high-end watchmaking. Historically, heritage brands have often treated archives as sacred territory, preserving icons through careful replication. Increasingly, however, the most confident maisons are recognising that legacy is strengthened through reinterpretation rather than preservation alone.
This philosophy sits at the heart of Zenith’s Double Signed Program. “Legacy is not static,” notes the brand. “It evolves.”
That sentiment resonates strongly in contemporary collecting circles, where enthusiasts increasingly value authenticity of intent over nostalgia alone. The appeal of a double-signed watch has always stemmed from what it represents: the convergence of two respected names, united by a shared vision.
For Zenith, partnering with Hida brings a new perspective to one of its most celebrated movements. For Hida, it offers an opportunity to engage directly with a calibre he has admired for decades. “The connection with Naoya Hida was immediate,” says Romain Marietta, Zenith’s Chief Product Officer. “When different disciplines and sensibilities engage with a classic design, they can bring nuance, tension and harmony in equal measure.”
Ultimately, the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed is not simply a limited-edition watch. It is a statement about how luxury craftsmanship evolves—through conversation rather than reinvention, and through collaboration rather than compromise. In an industry built on the measurement of time, it is a reminder that some traditions remain most relevant when they are allowed to move forward.
