In 2018, diplomat Raymond Loretan took over the presidency of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) and renewed its focus: guaranteeing the competition’s strict independence and neutrality through the establishment of an academy that represents watchmaking’s vox populi; and increasing the influence of watchmaking throughout the world by touring the participating timepieces to the four corners of the globe.
As the 2023 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève concludes with a glittering awards ceremony that awarded some of the industry’s most notable timepieces, we take a look at what the competition stands for and preview some of the winning watches.
Men’s Complication: Voutilainen World Timer
Finnish-born, Swiss-based watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is most famous for its cult-status watches that feature two distinct elements – complex dials featuring intricate hand- guilloché patterns and round cases adorned with elegant teardrop-shaped lugs. Its new World Timer debuts the cushion-shaped case for the brand, which exudes a sportier and more youthful vibe.
Measuring 39mm x 39mm, with a thickness of 12 mm, the visual anchor of this unusually shaped World Timer is its dial, which comprises different hand-made guilloché motifs in shades of grey. Surrounding it is a 24-hour disc that is divided into sections representing night and day. This, in conjunction with the outer city disc indicating reference locations, enables the simultaneous reading of time across 24 different time zones. Of special note are the cities listed in the outer ring – they include Môtiers, the village in Switzerland’s Val-de- Travers where Kari established his first workshop, and Kemi, the small town in Finland where he grew up.
The case is crafted from stainless steel and embraces the wrist by way of a black leather strap with contrasting stitching that matches the white in the dial. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback is the manual-winding Calibre 216TMZ, which is designed, manufactured, finished and assembled in the Voutilainen workshops. The time zone can be adjusted in one-hour increments by pressing the integrated pushpiece located on the crown. This makes the watch exceptionally easy to use and, combined with its contemporary styling, an ideal choice for the busy, frequent flyer.
Women Jewellery: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra
Bulgari, a frequent presence on the GPHG winner’s podium – the Octo Finissimo won the Aguille d’or in 2021 and, last year, it took home the prize for both the Jewellery and Audacity categories – the Graeco-Italian brand emerged victorious yet again with the Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra, a stunning cuff within which ticks a quartz-powered watch. Empowered by fascinating myths, the snake has, since ancient times, been an emblem of wisdom, rebirth and vitality, often used as a talisman. It made sense to combine this idea within the confines of a cuff, a timeless piece of jewellery that was even favoured by the Queen of the Nile.
The Serpenti Misteriosi Cleopatra is the latest chapter in Bulgari’s love affair with the iconic serpent, brought to life with an intense passion for gloriously bold combinations of coloured gemstones and a touch of majestic irreverence. Part of Bulgari’s Colour Treasures series, this high-jewellery, one-of-a-kind rose gold cuff watch showcases the Roman house’s expertise in gemstones, with a magnificently opulent and eye-catching new skin revealing a precious surprise: a diamond-set dial, hidden behind a faceted hexagonal see-through topaz of over five carats. The full list of precious stones chosen to adorn this cuff watch are three topaz stones, two rubellites, two tanzanites, two amethysts and pavé-set diamonds on the bracelet, case and dial.
Iconic: Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE
Since its groundbreaking debut two decades ago, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak has consistently challenged conventional watchmaking, captivating connoisseurs with its pioneering spirit. It is a culmination of daring design and bold technological advances first introduced under then CEO Rolf Schnyder’s visionary leadership and watchmaker Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s genius.
While mechanical watches hide their mechanism under a dial, the Freak ONE – which draws direct references from the first-ever model in this ingenious collection – has no dial, no hour hand and no minute hand. Instead, within a 44mm case, an orbital flying carrousel tourbillon carrying the entire gear train and an oversized silicon oscillator, indicates the minutes by completing a full rotation in 60 minutes, whereas the hour hand is replaced by a V-shaped pointer fixed to the black sunray-engraved barrel cover, which completes its rotation in 12 hours. Although a traditional mechanical watch has a crown for setting and winding, the Freak ONE does not. The very design of the movement allows the time to be set directly through the bezel and the wound through a mechanism in the caseback.
The Freak ONE also reflects Ulysse Nardin’s drive towards a more sustainable future, as it is the first model in this collection endowed with a wearable and ergonomic integrated rubber strap, made of 30% recycled production waste.
Sports: Tudor Pelagos 39
Tudor’s Pelagos 39 harnesses the present obsession with sportswatches by presenting a model that sits at the crossroads between the world of technical diving and urban sophistication. Featuring grade 2 titanium, luminescent ceramic composite monobloc hour markers, a rapid adjustment system for the clasp and a diver’s extension, the Pelagos 39 combines Tudor’s professional dive watch heritage with the versatility of a 39mm case, and the striking radiance of sunray satin finishes on its bezel and dial. The result is a sportswatch that boasts both cutting-edge watchmaking technology and a chic aesthetic, as at ease in the city as on the shore.
The Pelagos 39 model is equipped with the COSC-certified manufacture calibre MT5400, which ensures robustness, longevity, reliability and precision due to its variable inertia balance, which is held in place by a sturdy traversing bridge with two points of fixation. A notable feature of the calibre is that its power reserve is ‘weekend-proof’ – standing at about 70 hours, this enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. The watch comes with two straps that are exceptionally well-suited to the water – a supple titanium bracelet and a rubber strap, both of which are extendable to be worn over a wetsuit.
Artistic Crafts: Piaget Altiplano Métiers d’Art Undulata
Inspired by the unexpected beauty and strength of nature, the Metaphoria collection by Piaget explores this theme in high jewellery and high watchmaking creations. The Undulata, limited to eight pieces, is fitted with a manual winding movement that powers the hours, minutes and tourbillon functions, combining aesthetic perfection with mechanical excellence.
Within a 41mm white case studded with diamonds is a breathtaking dial designed by French artist Rose Saneuil. Subtly mixing the green, blue and iridescent hues into one hypnotic dial, she created a miniature marquetry of volume, textures and colours. This meticulous piece includes several layers of wood, straw and leather, patiently assembled by hand to create a mesmerising effect. Saneuil carefully cuts each element before incrusting them one at a time on the dial – a diligent operation that requires precision and patience, as these infinitely thin materials must perfectly fit, and takes 44 hours to complete. The swirl of colour lovingly embraces the piece de resistance of this watch, a poetic tourbillon that dances at 2 o’clock. A leather strap in a complimentary shade of green completes this artistically supreme timepiece.
Ladies Complication: Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior
For the first time, Dior Grand Soir enters the world of creative complication with a mechanical automaton, pursuing the creative success of the collection. This stunning timepiece tells the story of the birth of the House of Dior. On 18 April 1946, Christian Dior wanted to believe in his fabulous destiny. Walking through the streets of Paris, he found a star on the ground, a providential star, an iconic lucky charm that would show him the path to follow: create his couture house in the emblematic 30 Montaigne in Paris.
The Grand Soir Etoile de Monsieur Dior transcribes, with its animations, this magical destiny. This dial, imagined as a dreamlike scene, unfolds like a small theatre – the different layers create depth and magic, and immerse us in a precious night stroll. By activating the automaton with the push button, the sky of this diorama becomes the theatre of a true enchantment.
A 38mm case in yellow and white gold is studded with diamonds on the bezel and lugs, with a sprinkling of stones on the dial to represent stars in the night sky. A quartz movement powers the hours, minutes and automaton functions, and a glittery leather strap completes the picture.
Tourbillon Watch: Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit
A tourbillon is a mechanism that constantly rotates the balance wheel, balance spring and escapement while the movement is running, done to counter the effect of Earth's gravity on the isochronal properties of the movement. The tourbillon is often used as a display of watchmaking virtuosity, hence a timepiece that does not showcase it on the dial – in the case of Laurent Ferrier’s Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit, it is visible through the caseback – is an audacious watchmaker indeed. With its impressive aesthetics, flawless build quality and technical supremacy, its unsurprising that this watch took home the Tourbillon Watch prize this year.
The sporty nature of the Grand Sport can be traced to Laurent Ferrier’s passion for motorsports and his stint as a semi-professional car racer – in 1979, he came third in the historic 24 Hours of Le Mans race. In fact, it is his memory of dawn breaking over the Sarthe Circuit that inspired the salmon-pink dial of the watch. Its pink hues contrast beautifully with darker drop-shaped applied indices in white gold, treated with ruthenium and enhanced with white Super-LumiNova, giving the dial perfect legibility. Hallmarked with the LF signature, the famous assegai-shaped hands complete the piece. A slightly domed sapphire crystal gives this exceptional timepiece a rounded profile.
The dial sits comfortably within a barrel-shaped case and cushion-shaped bezel, which give the watch a compelling 1970s vibe. Within ticks the LF619.01 calibre with a double-balance spring regulating the one-minute tourbillon. Boasting a robust 80-hour power reserve, the movement was first used in the Classic Tourbillon, which incidentally won the Men’s Watch Prize at the GPHG in 2010.
