Watch Trend Report 2023: Cool Chronographs

The hottest new releases feature horology’s most popular complication.
by Lynette Koh

Even as the world roars back to post-pandemic life, lingering global uncertainties see watch brands treading with a certain cautiousness in their latest releases. But this does not mean there are no surprises. Instead of ultra-complicated pieces, watchmakers are proposing fresh takes on classic complications such as the chronograph.

This year, the world’s most popular complication is the focal point of several brands’ new releases, including milestone timepieces by heavyweights A. Lange & Sohne and Grand Seiko. Montblanc even brings us a new way of operating said classic complication. Here are our picks of some of the coolest chronos this year.

1. Patek Philippe: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G

Credit: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Pilot watch has hosted various complications since it was launched in 2015, including dual-time and alarm functions. Now, the family gets its first chronograph model, which is available in two dial variations — a blue-grey dial with sunburst finish and a khaki-green lacquered dial. The 42mm white-gold timepieces are powered by the self-winding calibre CH 28-520 FUS, which combines a flyback chronograph, dual-time function, and an analogue date display.

2. A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus Chronograph

Credit: A. Lange & Sohne

Four years after launching its sporty-elegant Odysseus watch, A. Lange & Sohne now releases the first chronograph in the family. Housed in a 42.5mm steel case, the watch is powered by the company’s first self-winding chronograph movement, the calibre L156.1 Datomatic. To retain the Odysseus’ signature aesthetic without requiring the addition of the subdials typical of chronographs, the timepiece’s minute chronograph hand is centrally mounted, along with the one for the seconds.

3. Grand Seiko: Tentagraph SLGC001

Credit: Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko, Seiko’s high-end sibling, launches the Tentagraph, its first fully mechanical chronograph. It might seem surprising, but the brand’s previous chronographs have all been powered by its hybrid Spring Drive movements. A high-beat chronograph with a frequency of 36,000 Hz, the Tentagraph has three days of power reserve even when the chronograph is in operation. This means that the 43.2mm titanium timepiece has the longest power reserve among the industry’s high-frequency chronographs — for now.

4. Montblanc: Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva

Credit: Montblanc

Looking at Montblanc’s new Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva chronograph, one might ask, where are the chronograph pushers? Instead of the usual buttons used to start, stop, and reset the timer, this timepiece uses its fluted bezel — a feature on some early watches made by Montblanc- owned chronograph specialist Minerva — to control these functions. Equipped with the Calibre MB M13.21, the hand-wound watch comes in 42mm cases made from the brand’s own Lime Gold (an alloy with a subtle green tone) or steel.

5. Hermes: H08 Chronograph

Credit: Hermes

Affirming the unabating popularity of the sporty yet sophisticated timepiece, Hermes has unveiled several new takes on its cushion-shaped H08 timepiece. Aside from novel colours and case materials for the time-and-date models, the luxury house also unveiled the first H08 Chronograph. Driven by the Vaucher-manufactured H1837 self-winding movement with a monopusher-chronograph module, the 41mm watch features a case made of a composite of carbon fibre and graphene powder, as well as a titanium bezel and a black PVD-coated titanium crown.

This story originally published on The Peak Singapore.

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