by Yanni Tan
One of the most significant demands in the creation of complex timepieces involves the maintenance of timekeeping precision while incorporating complications that traditionally drain power from the movement, which could disrupt the steady rhythm essential for accuracy.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s answer is the groundbreaking Duometre system whose genius lies in its dual-wing movement. Introduced in 2007, this patented mechanism separates the power supply into two independent barrels: one dedicated exclusively to timekeeping, and the other to driving the complications.
Linked by a shared regulating organ, these barrels ensure the timekeeping accuracy remains unaffected by the operation of any additional functions. This approach represents a complete rethinking of traditional watchmaking, in which the addition of complications would typically jeopardise the precise operation of the escapement.
Since its inception, the Duometre concept has evolved into a family of highly sophisticated timepieces, each more refined than the last. Marking the launch of the new-generation Duometre collection this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also designed two new calibres and an entirely new case.
A modern interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the maison in the 19th century, the case with its rounded contours and convex crystal is as tactile as it is visually appealing. Even the crown now flaunts deep and rounded notches, relegating the only sharp lines to the highly polished edges of the lugs.
Made of 34 separate parts as well as screwed lugs, the case construction thus allows for multiple finishes — polished, brushed, and micro-blasted — that create a fantastic play of light that does exceptional justice to the latest creations.
Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual: Multi-axis engineering marvel
This extraordinary 44mm pink gold timepiece brings together two of the most challenging complications in watchmaking: a tri-axis tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, both housed within the revolutionary Duometre mechanism.
At the heart of the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is the new Calibre 388, a manually wound movement developed and produced entirely in-house. Its namesake feature, the Heliotourbillon, rotates on three axes to create a mesmerising “spinning top” effect. Beyond offering visual spectacle, it serves a crucial purpose in counteracting the effects of gravity in all positions.
The Heliotourbillon’s intricate assembly comprises 163 components, yet it weighs less than 0.7 grams — an astonishing feat of micro-engineering. Supported by ceramic ball bearings to minimise friction, its three cages rotate at different speeds and axes, with full rotations completed in 30, 60, and 120 seconds, respectively.
Complementing the Heliotourbillon is a perpetual calendar, which automatically adjusts for varying month lengths and leap years, requiring manual correction only in 2100. A unique feature is its ability to set the hours and minutes backwards without affecting the perpetual calendar’s accuracy, a rare and highly sought-after capability in horology.
The dial reinterprets the Duometre collection’s signature symmetry, with a layout that places the time display at the apex, flanked by twin power reserves, while the moon phase and calendar indications form the base. The left side of the dial is open-worked to reveal the Heliotourbillon in motion, set against a starry blue lacquer background. Also adding depth and elegance are opaline finishes, applied hour markers, and azure (ultra-fine engraved) surfaces.
Duometre Chronograph Moon: Precision meets celestial beauty
This 42.5mm timepiece seamlessly blends the precision of a high-frequency chronograph with the poetic allure of a moon phase display.
Powered by the newly developed manual-winding Calibre 391 movement, the Duometre Chronograph Moon boasts a fully integrated movement that combines a manual-winding monopusher chronograph with moon phase and day/night complications, as well as two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante (flying seconds) display.
The chronograph is capable of measurements accurate to 1/6th of a second via the foudroyante hand, which beats six times as it makes a complete rotation within one second. To appreciate the calibre’s mechanical beauty dial-side, one only needs to peer through two open-worked sections under the power reserve indicators.
Showcasing a fine opaline finish, the highly legible sectored dial is further enhanced with slightly sunken sub-dials, while its edges are subtly curved to follow the contours of the glass box crystal. The graceful moon phase display, set within the chronograph hours and minutes sub-dial at 3 o’clock, is an arresting sight with a blue backdrop that complements the day/night indicator at 9 o’clock.
Available in a platinum case with a copper-coloured dial or a pink gold case with a silver dial, the watch’s mechanism can be admired in all its glory through the transparent crystal caseback. Expect to see sunrayed Geneva stripes on the movement’s bridges, as well as other traditional haute horlogerie finishes, such as crisply bevelled and polished angles, brushed surfaces, and blue screws.
Duometre Quantieme Lunaire: Contemporary comeback
The first Duometre model to be offered in versatile stainless steel, this new 42.5mm Quantieme Lunaire version also introduces a softly glowing deep blue dial that, when paired with the new case, evokes a decidedly contemporary air.
The precision of its manual-winding Calibre 381 movement is highlighted by the inclusion of the distinctive seconde foudroyante hand, which completes a full revolution every second with six jumps, allowing the wearer to observe intervals of 1/6th of a second.
Aesthetically, the Quantieme Lunaire is a masterclass in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s attention to detail. The dial features a symmetrical layout with three sub-dials forming an inverted pyramid: the time display at 3 o’clock, the date and moon phase at 9 o’clock, and the seconde foudroyante nestled at 6 o’clock between the two power reserve indicators.
Made in several sections, the dial is enlivened by multiple beguiling decorative techniques, from opaline finishing to sunray-brushing, as well as the convex curve of the dial perimeter and the slight depression of the sub-dials. Much of the calibre, which is fully visible beneath the crystal case-back, is also open-worked.