It is difficult to pinpoint exactly when omakase took hold in Malaysia. Loosely translated as “I leave it to you”, the concept entrusts diners entirely to the chef — not only in creativity, but in the freedom to work with the freshest, most expressive ingredients available on the day. For enthusiasts, omakase is a guarantee of excellence, shaped by seasonality, instinct and restraint rather than a fixed menu.
For those who step through the doors of Sushi Taka, that promise is delivered with quiet conviction. Tucked away on Level 3A of The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur, this Michelin-Select restaurant is a discreet haven for connoisseurs of authentic Edomae sushi, defined by simplicity, balance and intention.
CRAFTED PRECISION
Edomae sushi, originating in early 19th-century Tokyo, literally means “in front of Edo”, referencing the waters where fish was once caught and prepared for immediate consumption. Its essence lies in technique rather than luxury — curing, marinating, ageing, simmering and steaming were developed to preserve fish, refine texture and draw out umami, creating harmony between fish and rice.
At Sushi Taka, Chef Koji Ishiguro — formerly of a Michelin-starred restaurant in Macau — embodies this philosophy. Central to his approach is shari, or sushi rice. Shiro shari, seasoned with white vinegar, is paired with lighter seafood to highlight delicate nuances, while aka shari, made with aged red vinegar from sake lees, complements fuller-bodied fish such as tuna, enhancing depth without overpowering. Fish is aged with dark sake and kombu to coax out supple textures and subtle aromas, revealing layers of flavour while preserving the ingredient’s clarity.
Sustainability is equally considered. Trimmings form umami-rich broths, and leftover rice is transformed into an aromatic dessert, demonstrating the chef’s commitment to zero waste without compromising artistry.
REFINEMENT IN EVERY GESTURE
Signature dishes exemplify this refined approach. Steamed Japanese black abalone, accompanied by a silky liver sauce, deepens oceanic umami while maintaining tenderness. Kasutera Tamagoyaki, a castella-style omelette layered with prawn and white fish paste, balances sweetness and savoury depth in quiet sophistication.
Service mirrors the cuisine. Attentive yet unobtrusive, staff cater to seasonal menus and left-handed diners, while the intimate Hinoki counter invites guests into an understated dialogue with the chef. Air-flown seafood from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, paired with Ishiguro’s philosophy of “Thinking of the Guest”, ensures that every bite resonates with intention. Sushi Taka does not rely on spectacle; here, simplicity becomes sophistication, and Edomae sushi is experienced not as performance, but as an artform.
