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The doors to Watches and Wonders 2024, a much-anticipated annual luxury timepiece showcase, have just been thrown open. And indeed, wonders never cease. As predicted, the watchmaking industry is putting up a veritable show of force to appeal to a wider-than-ever demographic of horology enthusiast, new and experienced.
From simple aesthetics for daily wear and technical marvels, to the most flamboyant designs that combine high horology and craftsmanship, there is something for everyone. Ever-popular sporty watches are seen in more iterations and unexpected colours. Chronographs and calender complications are aplenty — some bearing diamonds. A good number of creations, which fuse classic looks with restraint case sizes, are truly genderless. Successful historical models are are welcomed back and reinterpreted with more imagination.
The scene on Day 1 of Watches and Wonders 2024 (Credit: Watches and Wonders Geneva/Keystone/Valentin Flauraud)
The trend of green dials is here to stay, but another hue — blue — is staking a claim on the hot list. And every shade of blue, from midnight to aquatic to icy pale, is featured on not just dials but straps. Earth tones spanning sandstone brown to rich chocolate, are also favoured, as are monochromatic watches, specifically clad in all black. In addition, there is never a better time for magpies, as more than a handful of brands are experimenting with their own unique, proprietary shades of yellow and rose gold.
Whether you’re just stepping into the world of luxury timepieces, building or upgrading your collection beyond the basics, or looking for real investments, we have the right recommendations for you. Here’s what caught our eye.
For The Connoisseur
Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5330G-001 (Credit: Patek Philippe)
Launched as a limited edition at the Patek Philippe grand exhibition “Watch Art” in Tokyo last June, this model has been inducted into the manufacture’s regular collection. This new-gen 40mm World Time 5330G-001 features a patented world-first: a date display synchronised with local time, while the new caliber 240 HU C self-winding movement indicates the date on the dial periphery. It comes in a elegant white gold case and a blue-gray opaline dial, with its centre adorned with a “carbon” motif.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine (Credit: Vacheron Constantin)
Vacheron Constantin‘s Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, in a 50-piece limited edition, has joined the Collection Excellence Platine. Combining two noble complications (monopusher chronograph and tourbillon regulator) with the latest technological advances, this model pays tribute to the grand watchmaking traditions with an aesthetic that is as functional as it is original. This 42.5mm all-platinum masterpiece, powered by Calibre 3200, is created to mark the brand’s 260th anniversary.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad (Credit: Ulysse Nardin)
After more than two decades since the first Ulysse Nardin Freak shook up the watchmaking scene with its subversiveness (no hands, no dial, no crown), it is now back. This new chapter introduces the 99-piece limited-edition Freak S Nomad, whose movement looks like a spaceship, thanks to the architecture of the Freak S Calibre UN-251 manufacture movement: a flying carousel that rotates around its own axis. Its 45mm case brings together an experimental mix of materials: titanium for the main body; an anthracite PVD-coated titanium bezel; and carbon fibre flanks that also serve as the watch’s lugs.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon (Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre)
In 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the groundbreaking and ultra-precise Duometre mechanism in the form of a chronograph. This year, the Duometre is launched in an entirely new timepiece, marrying the lauded chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. Powered by the new Calibre 391, the 42.5mm Duometre Chronograph Moon also features a Night and Day display. It comes in a platinum case with a copper-coloured dial, as above, and a pink gold case offset by a silver dial.
For The Upgrader
Cartier Prive Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph (Credit: Cartier)
The eighth annual presentation of the Cartier Prive now boasts a contemporary take on the Tortue, which was born in 1912. It follows on from the rare watches unveiled in previous years, such as the Crash, the Tank Cintree and the Tonneau. This new rendition is kept faithful to the original design, except for some subtle reworking: the horns are stretched along the strap, while the profile is made slimmer and the entire watch lighter. Cartier also introduces the monopusher chronograph complication, as seen in the above yellow gold model, which comes in a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces.
Piaget Polo Date – 150th Anniversary Edition (Credit: Piaget)
With this pair of 150th Anniversary couple watches in steel with a rubber bracelet, Piaget has struck the perfect chord between the bright gadroons of the historic Piaget Polo and the casual-chic style of the iconic Piaget Polo. Produced in a 300-piece edition each, they pay homage to Yves Piaget, who loved dreaming up his-and-her Polo versions. The 42mm model is powered by the manufacture self-winding mechanical movement 1110P, and the 36mm by the 500P1 movement.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Credit: IWC)
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph, launched in 1998, has succeeded in imparting sporty elegance to the legendary collection dating back to 1939. It is distinguished by an easy-to-read vertical sub-dial arrangement, and an inner flange printed with a quarter-second scale for high-precision stop-time readings. This handsome 41mm Obsidian model above is one of three new versions; the other two being Horizon Blue and Dune. Powered by the manufacture 69355 calibre mechanical chronograph movement, this range’s highlight is a painstaking, more-than-60-step process required for the dial craftsmanship.
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono (Credit: Chopard)
The five-year-old Alpine Eagle collection has interpreted its flyback chronograph in a 44mm titanium case of extreme lightness. Like the entire collection, this Alpine Eagle XL Chrono model now flaunts a new, gorgeous Rhone Blue dial colour, which reflects the maison’s commitment to preserving the Alpine environment and its biodiversity. There are also three patents for the Chopard 03.05-C chronometer-certified movement with flyback function, which testify to its accuracy and smooth handling. The best thing: Part of the proceeds from this model’s sales will be donated to the Alpine Eagle Foundation.
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Pink (Credit: Tudor)
If you’ve always admired a Tudor Black Bay, how about a version that is as bold and unusual as they come? Despite remaining faithful to the masculine Black Bay diving watch aesthetic, this particular 41mm model is not just genderless, but more daring than ever. Its domed pink dial, enclosed by a stainless steel case, features contrasting sub-counters and the brand’s hallmark “snowflake” hands. A power reserve of 70 hours, from its COSC-certified manufacture Calibre MT5813, is also guaranteed.
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 (Credit: Montblanc)
Following the launch of the Montblanc Iced Sea Collection in 2022, Montblanc continues to push the limits with this Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. Engineered to withstand a depth of up to 4,810m, it makes a reliable companion in extreme underwater environments. Housed in a 43mm titanium case with a shield protecting the screw-down crown and fitted with the COSC-certified manufacture Calibre MB 29.29, this new diving watch comes with a caseback adorned with a 3D engraving of the view divers see when under glacial ice.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01543 (Credit: Panerai)
This creation is the culmination of a multi-year partnership between two Italian sea legends: Panerai and the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli Team. This watch’s new case material of Ti-Ceramitech, which is inspired by a material and process originally used in high-performance competitive environments, weighs 44 per cent lighter than steel yet boasts fracture toughness 10 times higher than traditional ceramic. Running on the automatic mechanical P.900 calibre boosted by an anti-shock device, it offers a power reserve of three days and water resistance of up to 500m.
Baume & Mercier Riviera Squelette M0A10721 (Credit: Baume & Mercier)
This openworked model is the newest in the Baume & Mercier‘s Riviera collection, which was responsible for one of the world’s first steel sports watches in 1973. The Squelette M0A10721 has an exclusively designed semi-skeleton calibre, ensconced within a 42mm steel dodecagonal case. Another feature of this piece, which is inspired by the streamlined architecture of modern villas on the French Riviera, is an in-built rubber strap that is easily interchangeable.
