There are not many watchmakers that can claim to have been around for centuries, and fewer still that have produced watches uninterrupted since the time of its founding. This is just one of the reasons Patek Philippe has earned its revered status in the horology industry, with many of the world’s most ardent collectors having at least a few rare Patek Philippes in their collections. What’s even more astounding about the brand is that, if you look back over the past few decades of watches, you can clearly see the consistency in the design language. And yet, with each new release or even an update to a reference, there is enough novelty to make enthusiasts go wild. The newly launched Ref 5270/1R- 001 is the perfect example of how Patek Philippe achieves this.
To understand the significance of this watch, one must first understand the magnitude of the perpetual calendar with chronograph complication for Patek Philippe. It was the very first watch manufacture to ever produce this combination of complications, and it achieved this back in 1941 with the Ref 1518. In fact, it was the only manufacture around the world that was able to do this for nearly half a century. And, thus, this grand complication was, and will remain, an integral part of Patek Philippe history.
This brings us to the Ref 5270, which is also a perpetual calendar watch with a chronograph function. This is not a new collection from Patek Philippe as it had previously been launched back in 2011. However, if you are a collector of modern Patek Philippes, the Ref 5270 is most definitely one you need in your collection as it is fitted with the CH 29- 535 PS Q movement – the very first inhouse perpetual calendar chronograph movement made by the brand.
To be fair, the base CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement (consisting of six patented chronograph innovations) had already existed within the Patek Philippe family as it first classic, totally manufacture-made chronograph, but to include a perpetual calendar on top of that was no easy feat. In order to give the Ref 5270 a slim profile, it had to engineer an incredibly thin calendar mechanism where it fit 182 individual parts within a height of a mere 1.65mm. This module was fitted on the top side of the movement, so the beautifully finished, hand-wound movement with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch can still be admired from the sapphire crystal caseback.
This year, the Ref 5270 gets yet another update with two references, each appealing to a specific type of consumer. But no matter which camp you fall in to, it is definitely easy to understand how, even though the updates of these references are quite minor, Patek Philippe still has managed to create watches that ignite a new batch of emotions, whether you are a long-time collector or someone new to this exclusive world of highend watches.
PATEK PHILIPPE REF 5270/ 1R-001
The latest update to the 5270 comes in this beautiful expression of rose gold. The case is one thing but the ‘Goutte’ style bracelet in this same gold, undoubtedly, steals the show. The bracelet is made from five rows of droplet shaped links that feel immensely supple and elegant on the wrist. And it is because of its unique shape that the polishing of the bracelet can only be done by hand.
As Patek Philippe wanted the bracelet perfectly integrated into the case, it has also cleverly added discreet notches to the case-side links, so that you can correct the perpetual calendar without having to first remove the bracelet. The previous version’s silver opaline dial was replaced with an ebony black sunburst dial that offers a perfect contrast to the exquisite 41mm rose gold case.
This version in rose gold with the ‘Goutte’ style bracelet replaces the rose-gold predecessor model worn on an alligator strap.
PATEK PHILIPPE REF 5270P-001
Although most Patek Philippes are generally great collector’s items, the Ref 5270P-001 is most definitely one that will end up being quite a rare item in any collector’s portfolio. First of all, the fact that it is the first 5270 to be offered in platinum – with platinum being one of the more soughtafter materials for Patek Philippe enthusiasts, barring stainless steel, of course – already makes this reference somewhat a coveted watch. But then comes the brilliant golden opaline dial. Historically, there are only a miniscule number of watches in the entire Patek Philippe collection that come with a salmon-coloured dial, and the 5270P- 001 is a stunning example of why when it does, collectors go wild.
CALIBER CH 29-535 PS Q
- Manual Winding.
- Chronograph with a central chronograph hand and instantaneous 30-minute counters.
- Perpetual Calendar.
- Diameter: 32mm.
- Height: 7mm.
- Number of parts: 456.
- Power reserve: With the chronograph disengaged: Min. 55 hours – max. 65 hours.