Having frequented Switzerland far too many times to attend the nation’s annual watch and jewellery fairs, I regret to admit I was somewhat (read: very) jaded at the prospect of having to visit this tiny nation of just 8 million yet again. After all, there’s only so much cheesy fondue one can eat and so many snow-capped mountains one can see before they all start to taste and look the same, or so I thought.
It appears that fate is not without a sense of humour, and I once again found myself in little old Switzerland. I was there at the behest of Jungfrau Railways, one of the nation’s leading tourism companies and operator of the eponymous mountain railway, who, as if having read my mind, was out to prove that one hasn’t truly experienced Switzerland until they’ve been to Interlaken.
I am glad to say that the Jungfrau Railways was indeed right, and I was wrong, oh so very wrong. Buffeted on all sides by the mighty Swiss Alps and situated between two pristine lakes nourished by glacier snowmelt, Interlaken is as close as it gets to being a little slice of heaven on earth. The raw and elemental beauty of the area immediately brought to mind a quote by American author Jarod Kintz, who declared: “The mountains are where God proves He’s better than Michelangelo at sculpting.â€
It is no exaggeration to say that Interlaken would have made for a more than worthy replacement for New Zealand during the filming of Peter Jackson’s critically acclaimed Lord of the Rings trilogy. It’s a place tailor-made for both the thrill-seeking adventurer and the laidback connoisseur of all things fine. Here, you can truly escape the hustle and bustle of the marketplace by enjoying the beautiful things life has to offer at your own pace.
Venturing into the Heart of Switzerland
Interlaken is located in the canton of Bern in central Switzerland, and has always served as the main transport hub in the region by virtue of its favourable geography and many natural routes leading to it. As was the case in the Roman Empire where “All Roads Lead to Romeâ€, parallels can certainly be drawn here at Interlaken.
It is located between Geneva and Zurich, being about 140km from the former and 90km from the latter, but the actual travelling distance is greater due to Switzerland’s mountainous geography. As Interlaken doesn’t have an airport of its own, visitors will need to travel to either Zurich or Geneva, and airlines such as KLM, Lufthansa and Swiss Air are well suited to accommodate this. From here, it’s just a simple matter of hopping onto a train headed for Interlaken, which will take about two hours from Zurich and slightly under three hours from Geneva. Of course, driving is also an option and offers greater flexibility, but given the historic reliability so closely associated with Swiss trains, I’ll have to recommend the railway option.
Regardless of which mode of transport you choose, the journey will be scenic. Along the way, you’ll be treated to a charming landscape of traditional farmsteads, surrounded by bovine herds, rolling mountain valleys draped with evergreen forests, and snow-capped alpine peaks backdropped by clear blue skies. Before too long, you’ll be arriving right in the heart of Interlaken itself.
A Land Before Time
Unlike the majority of Swiss settlements that can trace their history back to the classical era of Roman antiquity, the town of Interlaken only came into existence around the 11th century during the Middle Ages. It all began with a humble abbey built along the banks of the Aare, the river that links the two lakes – the Thun and the Brienz – Interlaken is situated between. This abbey, which would become known as Interlaken Abbey, controlled a bridge over the Aare, and the economic activity it encouraged resulted in the formation of the village of Aarmühle. This village eventually changed its name to Interlaken in 1891.
It was not commerce that would propel Interlaken to greatness, but the innate beauty of the region itself. From the beginning of the 19th century, Interlaken began to cement its reputation as an international holiday destination, in no small part due to the efforts of several renowned Swiss landscape artists who successfully captured the majesty of Interlaken in their works. Advancements in steam power and railway technology helped to facilitate growth in this industry, and by the middle of the century, tourists from all over Europe could be found in Interlaken enjoying the crisp mountain air, warm summers and luxurious spa treatments.
Unlike many other holiday towns that see fluctuating seasonal demand, Interlaken remains a tourist hotspot throughout the year. In summer, temperatures range from the high teens to mid-20s to, making it the perfect climate for enjoying the great outdoors. As such, many a backpacker, hiker and cross-country cyclist can be found frequenting Interlaken during this time.
The town is extremely pedestrian-friendly, and those looking to enjoy the sights and sounds of Interlaken may do so on foot or on a traditional horse-drawn carriage, which will take you on a gentle ambling tour along famous landmarks and streets. Beyond the town’s boundaries, there are numerous cruises that ferry visitors around the Thun and Brienz lakes. On this leisurely and scenic journey, guests will be able to behold the awe-inspiring scenery of the lakes’ pristine waters, the region’s rolling green mountains, and neighbouring towns so quaint and perfect they look as if they have been pulled straight out of a fairy tale, all the while being treated to free-flowing champagne and a sumptuous set-course meal.
In winter, Interlaken transforms into an idyllic frosty paradise. By virtue of its strategic location, Interlaken serves as an ideal starting point for winter sport excursions into the surrounding regions of Beatenberg and Habkern, as well as the Jungfrau peak. All told, there are over one million overnight stays every year at Interlaken, making it one of Switzerland’s leading tourist destinations.
In The Shadow Of The Alps
As is the case with most Swiss settlements, Interlaken is nestled in the shadow of many a great alpine ridge. Directly to the north is the Harder Kulm, the highest mountain peak of the Bernese Oberland region with a height of 1,322m. The Harderbahn, a funicular railway that’s just a short walk away from Interlaken town centre, provides transport to and from Harder Kulm. This journey takes around 10 minutes.
Located at the top of this mountain is the Bergrestaurant Harder Kulm, a castle-like restaurant that can accommodate over 300 guests in both an indoor and outdoor setting. The site also boasts an observation platform, which offers an impressive view of the entire canton and beyond. When the weather is favourable, visitors will also be able to catch sight of the Jungfrau, the main summit of the Bernese Alps that lies directly to the south of Interlaken.
Harder Kulm provides a variety of activities catered to all walks of life. Those looking to kick back and relax with a cold beer in hand will feel right at home here. It is especially pleasant to recline on the many deck chairs provided while basking in the warm summer glow. This site also serves as a popular starting point for cross-country hikers.
Those who enjoy living life on the edge will be pleased to know that there’s also a faster way of getting back down to Interlaken from the summit – by paragliding. Around Harder Kulm, there are a number of paragliding sites that allow one to simply strap on a parachute harness and leap off the edge of a mountain in tandem with a guide. From here, paragliders will be directed to eventually land in a park at the centre of Interlaken itself.
A Journey to the Top of the World
To the south of Interlaken is the Jungfrau. This towering vista clocks in at a height of 4,158m and, together with the Eiger and Mönch peaks, forms the behemoth mountain ridge overlooking the Swiss Plateau and is one of Switzerland’s most recognisable geographical landmarks.
For most of history, mankind could only look at the Jungfrau and dream of what wonders a place that seemed to kiss the heavens might hold. So high, so immense and so inhospitable did the Jungfrau seem that none dared to challenge it. However, it all changed on 3rd August, 1811 when the Meyer brothers, who were either possessed with a rare streak of insanity or courage, finally crested the Jungfrau.
Upon seeing that the summit was attainable, an enterprising Zurich industrialist named Adolf Guyer-Zeller began construction of the Jungfrau railway in 1894 with the intention of finding a passageway through the Bernese Alps to circumvent time-consuming detours through the winding alpine valleys. This endeavour was wrought with numerous setbacks, which included an incident with exploding dynamite that caused several casualties among the predominantly Italian workers. Today, the names of the fallen can be found on placards affixed to the walls of the tunnels they carved out so many years ago.
Against all odds, the 9km railway track running from the mountain pass of Kleine Scheidegg to the Jungfraujoch, the valley that saddles the Jungfrau and Mönch summits, was completed on 21st February, 1912. Unfortunately for Guyer-Zeller, he would not live to see the completion of this project, having passed away peacefully in 1899.
Today, visiting the Jungfraujoch is decidedly a much easier affair than it was back in the Meyer brothers’ time. Instead of days, or even weeks, travelling to the Jungfraujoch now requires only a two-hour train ride from Interlaken. Built upon the Jungfraujoch are the Top of Europe, a five-storey building, and Sphinx Observatory, the second highest observation deck in all of Switzerland which commands a panoramic view of the Swiss Plateau.
The Jungfraujoch is a particularly popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts in the summer, as the warm sunshine serves to take the bite out of the Jungfrau’s winter chill, where temperatures rarely rise above freezing. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, professional adventurers can also be found trekking across the immense Aletsch Glacier, the longest ice-stream in the Alps with a length of over 22km, which the Jungfraujoch overlooks.
Despite its lofty remoteness, the Top of Europe is not without amenities and comes well equipped with five restaurants that are able to seat well over a thousand diners all year round. Cuisines offered range from Swiss fine dining at Restaurant Crystal, to a spicy Indian buffet at Bollywood, to the free and easy Eiger that offers diners a captivating view of the Aletsch Glacier. Located deep in the freezing underbelly of the Top of Europe is the Ice Palace, which features an ice bar as well as numerous ice sculptures. Needless to say, there’s something for everyone up here on the top of the world.
The Swiss Stamp of Quality
Alas, all good things must come to an end. And my awe of the scale and beauty of the Swiss Alps was tempered by the sobering thought of returning to mundane normality during the descent from the Jungfrau. It is an unforgettable experience; to have stood alongside humanity’s greatest adventurers upon a summit that almost touches the heavens. One may even find it rather god-like as one stands there, looking down at mankind’s tiny settlements and thinking how insignificant they appear in the shadow of nature’s greatest monuments.
In the end, Jungfrau Railways was right. Interlaken and Jungfrau are the purest physical manifestations of Switzerland itself, and one cannot say they have seen everything this nation has to offer until they’ve experienced both firsthand. Visiting this region is an all-encompassing experience of good food, fine wine and beautiful landscapes frozen in time. Pair this delightful combination with the company of friends and loved ones, and you’ll have a holiday you won’t soon forget.
