PEI MODERN
Where: Four Seasons Hotel at 199, George Street
What: It might be a Melburnian import but Mark Best’s Pei Modern demands your attention. And rightfully so. Architectural aficionados would appreciate the name, in honour of the great IM Pei, who designed the latticework at the original Pei Modern at the Sofitel Melbourne, which opened in 2012. Best’s Sydney outpost isn’t even a year old but it’s already winning accolades from all who dine here. Meals begin with fresh-baked sourdough and hand-churned butter but if it’s real taste of New South Wales you’re after, dive straight into a platter of Clyde River rock oysters served atop a bed of samphire paired with tangy, flavourful Cabernet Sauvignon vinaigrette. And if you’ve ever lusted after the dazzling meats on display at the carnivore’s dream that is Victor Churchill’s, order the whole Holmbrae chicken (one of their bestsellers), served complete with head and legs.
Why: Best places a lot of emphasis on using, pardon the pun, only the best ingredients so expect to be wow-ed by a host of other good things, many locally sourced, like the Milly Hill lamb shoulder cooked in chamomile, beef tartare with local sea urchin, duck egg Sauternes custard and an incredibly refreshing sorrel sorbet with honeycomb and meringue. One of Best’s favourite quips is “too much yummyâ€. After dining here, you’d know how he came up with it.
COOGEE PAVILION
Where: 169, Dolphin Street, Coogee
What: Almost right on Coogee Beach, this bright and breezy beachside destination bar is the perfect place to head to for delicious cocktails, tasty tapas-style treats, inspired by the Eastern Mediterranean, and a vibe that is pure Sydney: sun-kissed skin on show, salt-tinged air and, provided you choose the right place to sit, all the beauty of the surf and bronzed bodies in your line of sight.
Why: Sydney wunderkind Justin Hemmes’ creation (he isn’t known as the ‘Bar Czar’ for nothing) is the perfect base at which to spend a whole day out. Think along the lines of a beach club but friendlier and more family-oriented. You can play ping-pong, petanque or Scrabble on a giant magnetic board with the kiddos on the ground level as well as get a treat for the topper – gents can get a haircut while ladies may opt for a blowout. There are fresh-cut flowers to buy as well as an in-house theatrette and opportunities for caffeine shots. The Rooftop, however, is where the PG-18 fun is to be had. The balcony offers the best views of the shoreline and is the perfect place to tuck into charcoal-grilled bites, like salted pork neck skewers, charred harissa-dusted octopus and blistered padrón peppers, with something spiked, tall and cold waiting by your side. Our pick? The Pavilion Piña Colada! Life’s a beach, indeed.
MARQUE
Where: 4/5 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills
What: Mark Best’s lovely, minimalist Surry Hills dining room is moody, subdued and restrained in its décor. But the food is anything but. One of Australia’s most critically-acclaimed restaurants, Marque has received numerous accolades, including three hats (no mean feat) in the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide and Restaurant of the Year in 2011. It might surprise many that Best initially worked as an electrician in the gold mines of Western Australia. It was only after helping out at a friend’s restaurant that he discovered he liked cooking. And the rest, as they say, is history. Today, no foodie’s trip to Sydney is complete until dining here.
Why: If the sound of crispy Jerusalem artichoke skins topped with smoked salmon mousse and ocean trout roe, Fraser Island spanner crab with almond jelly, smoked eel with parmesan gnocchi and octopus with prawn custard and witlof kimchi (a veritable umami party on the palate, this dish has to be tasted to be believed) is music to your ears, there’s no further need to ask why. Marque’s resident sommelier is also intuitive and adventurous. Work with him to ensure each stunning dish finds a worthy oenological match to elevate the evening to an even greater high. We sampled a very fresh Viognier Nouveau to a crazy, fragrant Riesling as well as a deliciously intriguing red made from a blend of Rondinella and Corvina grapes.
MR WONG
Where: 3, Bridge Lane
What: Tucked away, it takes determination to find Mr Wong. But if you’re stumped, simply perch yourself at a suitable vantage point along Bridge Street and wait for it. Inevitably, a gaggle of beautiful people will be seen making their way into or emerging from a narrow alleyway. That’s the cue to follow the Louboutin trail that’ll lead you to Mr Wong – a dreamy, colonial-inspired dining room that evokes Suzie Wong, Hong Kong tai-pans and a Wong Kar-wai movie all at once. Imagine a 1920s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’d have nailed the feel down pat. Yum cha culture is also alive and vibrant in Sydney and, really, Mr Wong is the only place to consider. Its dim sum selection is unrivalled and, if you’re feeling particularly peckish, the rows upon rows of glistening roasted ducks, all gleaming and gorgeous through glass windows, would let you know that a banquet worthy of an emperor may also be had amidst the gorgeous interior, a former nightclub-turned-oriental tea room and resto par excellence.
Why: Etymologists have long known the story behind dim sum. Legend has it that a great general, moved by the heroism of his soldiers, sent parcels of small baked pastries and dumplings as a reward and token of his esteem. This act, stemming from the Cantonese words for ‘to touch one’s heart’, is now forever linked to the ritual of yum cha. So, if you’re hankering for basic har gow and shu mai, there are, of course, several other places to consider. But, if you’re looking for innovative parcels of pleasure (if you’re really serious about touching one’s heart, you should always endeavour to do it in style), Mr Wong is your go-to dim sum destination. To truly enchant your guests, be sure to order the crispy fried Balmain bugs with spicy salt, wild mushroom dumplings, prawn toast with foie gras and almonds and the snow crab xiao loong bao. Another dish that stood out was the bamboo leaf-wrapped black and white rice rolls with abalone and snow crab. Pair your dumplings with Mr Wong’s clever cocktails, featuring drinks that represent different Chinese provinces via fruits, herbs or spices unique to the region, like the tea-infused Yunnan Negroni, which gives a distinctively Chinese twist to the famous aperitif.
MOMOFUKU SEIÅŒBO
Where: The Star at 80, Pyrmont Street
What: Consider yourself a momofuku (lucky peach) if you get to dine in this rock-erific outpost of international chef-restaurateur David Chang. Named in honour of the Shinto goddess of immortality, the link between Momofuku SeiÅbo and the heavenly queen is her celestial garden, in which a peach tree grows. Legend has it the tree blossoms only once every 3,000 years, producing one perfect fruit – the peach of immortality – which bestows eternal life upon the one who bites into it. While creating the nectar of immortality is impossible, even for the multi-talented Chang, diners at Momofuku would at least be satiated by a meal of divine proportions. Although the restaurant seats around 40 people, only 18 lucky ones will get to sit at the counter, in plain view of all the kitchen action. And, despite its tranquil name, this Pyrmont dining room is fashioned more like a rock star’s canteen, with framed pictures of AC/DC on the walls. Forget about ordering here as the 10-course tasting menu is the only way to go, which offers guests a 360° experience of Chang’s creativity, fusing technique and texture, star-rated ingredients and an East-meets-West flavour. What stood out on our visit? An ethereal cep floss toast with hazelnuts, morsels of wagyu with salted black beans and radish that resembled our local dish of fruit rojak, roasted partridge with seaweed-crusted endive and Chang’s take on the Hong Kong polo pau but filled with ewe’s curd and rose syrup.
Why: If you’ve been craving for Chang’s signature pork buns, you have to agree that the eight-hour flight to Kingsford Smith is far more tolerable than to JFK. Also, Momofuku SeiÅbo’s wine list guarantees a dining experience to remember. After all, any restaurant with Jacques Selosse on the menu deserves applause. So, don’t sit back (the bar counter chairs have short backrests and are pretty high) but, instead, sit up, focus and ready the senses for a trip to remember. After you’re done, go ahead and duckwalk out á la Angus Young (guitar is optional). None of Momofuku’s team will judge you. Heck, they might even cheer you on.
SEPIA
Where: Darling Park, 201, Sussex Street
What: Having just been awarded the ‘One to Watch’ in San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 list, Sepia offers what is one of Australia’s most gracious gourmet experiences. The food is exemplary, naturally, but the service is remarkable – friendly, flawless and good enough to still have me beaming several months after dining there. Headed by Martin Benn and Vicki Wild, both of whom met while working at Tetsuya’s, dining here is like being in a dream, with each course or glass of wine unfolding in a series of thoughts, images and sensations, except that Sepia throws in flavour, which may range from caress-like to positively explosive, texture, creativity and an innate sense of intuition as to what would please, excite and thrill the palate that very moment.
Why: There are many reasons why one must dine at Sepia while in Sydney. Apart from the impeccable service, terrific ambience and marvellous wine list (among the stellar names, there’s also Tesseron cognac, an extensive selection of saké and no less than seven expressions of Kracher), it is, ultimately, Martin Benn’s cuisine that seals the deal as sweetly as a noble Sauternes. It’s not often that a palate cleanser is mentioned so prominently but Sepia’s is unmatchable – a perfect ‘pearl’ filled with gingerade and finger lime, and paired with yuzushu that’s served ‘smoking’, only to be cracked open to reveal taste sensations at differing temperatures. Chef Benn’s reverse nigiri sushi is also not to be missed – a genius starring of kingfish, aburi smoked ocean trout and poached Queensland banana prawns. I also almost swooned over the butter-poached Port Lincoln squid with barley-miso cured egg yolk and the Yasa caviar-topped smoked bone marrow with horseradish leaf and cream. Our mains featured a charcoal-grilled David Blackmore wagyu karubi topped with Tasmanian samphire, giving Victor Churchill devotees a reason once more to rejoice. Oishi? Oh, yes. Sepia also only offers two menus – both fixed; one offering the full 10-course monty or a no-nonsense four. But, just as size matters, length does too and, trust me, you’d regret not making time or stomach space for the other, each one-a-masterpiece, six courses.
ICEBERGS
Where: 1, Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach
What: Quintessentially Sydney, this iconic venue sums up all that we love about the city in one elegant swoop. The views are unrivalled (imagine sipping champagne while watching, to steal a line from Helen Macdonald, “the pointsource glitter on the waves†or perhaps the surf crashing onto the landmark Bondi Baths), the food delicious and the vibe, languorously laidback with an insouciant elegance about it. The food is Italian-inspired and it’s really a great way to while away an afternoon in this sea-loving city, knocking back a Ciroc-spiked aperitivo or ordering a third bottle of bubbles while keeping energy levels up (who knows? You might just want a quick dip in the outdoor ocean pool or go surfing later) with platters of Hazelgrove oysters from Pambula Lake (judged Australia’s best) or creamy burrata with Sorbello tomatoes. If your schedule permits, Sunday brunch is a near-perfect way to soak up the Icebergs experience. Book a table by the louvered windows before sitting down to champagne, Osetra caviar and classic brunch favourites like hot smoked Petuna ocean trout with crème fraiche and a sinful, earthy frittata studded with porcini mushrooms.
Why: There have been some grouses about Icebergs – from its designer-centric crowd to fusses over the menu. But none of that matters, really, when you’re basking in the sun, watching the oceanfront activity below, with a glass of something tipsily tasty in hand. And if you’re feeling cheeky and want to up the luxe experience by more than a few notches, ask the waiter to bring the wine list over again. Since the atmosphere all around is shimmering, the drinks should be likewise. There’s Cloudy Bay’s yummy Pelorus, for those feeling patriotically Antipodean, to a 1983 Salon ‘S’ cuvée. However, if an oligarch is shouting the next round, there’s no better time to order the 1995 Clos d’Ambonnay by Krug. A snip at AUD10,175.
QUAY
Where: Upper level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks
What: Peter Gilmore’s lauded dining room has several things going for it. Firstly, his reputation as one of Australia’s greatest chefs is not unfounded. Secondly, given the country’s reputation for fresh, top quality produce, it’s safe to say Gilmore’s philosophy of letting the ingredients shine is a sound one. Thirdly, a meal with a view is fine and dandy. But imagine a near-holy trinity of the Sydney Harbour and its iconic opera house and bridge to look out onto, in-between courses? No one would fault you if you let the conversation lapse a bit just to stare and stare.
Why: Gilmore is known for his métier in ‘embracing nature’s diversity to achieve a sense of balance and purity through produce, technique, texture, flavour and composition’ – note the order. Hence, it isn’t surprising that some of Australia’s most talented and passionate providores supply to Quay. A quick look at the line-up is like a Hall of Fame of farmers and growers – Anthony Puharich of Victor Churchill for beef and poultry, Paul Lee for artisan Asian ingredients and Tim and Elizabeth Johnstone of Johnstone Kitchen Gardens for bespoke veggies – although Chef Gilmore is known to incorporate edible flowers from his own garden as well. Several dishes stood out during my visit, including my first-ever non-Asian congee – made with mud crab, heart of palm and egg yolk emulsion – that’s been a starring dish of Quay for over a dozen years. The taste of contemporary Australia can also be detected in a dish of young northern bamboo shoots served with black-lipped abalone, eggplant and smoked eel, Flinders Island lamb with native coastal greens and raw smoked Blackmore wagyu with fermented rye crisps. And no one leaves without trying Gilmore’s signature Snow Egg, whose icy filling reflects the season (ours was cherry granita). Cold play? At its best, we say.
