SEEING STARS

It’s no mean feat heading the landmark dining room of France’s iconic hotel, Le Bristol Paris. But, for Eric Frechon, the three-starred chef of its legendary Epicure restaurant, it’s all in a day’s work. Overseeing a headcount of 110, he allowed us a rare sneak peek into what is surely hallowed territory – in Le Bristol’s kitchen, watching him preside over his domain. Certainly, the hotel is one of Paris’ most special – the setting for many storied encounters as well as being the star of Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris with Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. In the kitchen, a framed note of thanks from her husband, Nicolas, hangs on the wall. With Frechon’s office located right in the heart of the kitchen, a close look at his space reveals a veritable library of books. There’s Michael Ginor’s Foie Gras, the Grand Livre de Cuisine by Alain Ducasse, Larousse’s Les Cuisines du Monde, the ubiquitous scarlet-hued Guides Michelin as well as numerous awards.

As we observe Frechon go about his business – from inspecting a delivery of foie gras to directing his team as effortlessly as Valery Gergiev does with the Mariinsky Orchestra – a huge wall-mounted Audemars Piguet clock ticks away, keeping track of time for the team, although a Cartier Roadster also sits beautifully, and subtly, on Frechon’s wrist. It’s late morning already and the kitchen is a hive of activity. Cream-tuxedoed wait staff polish the Christofle to perfection while a flurry of chefs dart about, piping cream rosettes or brushing sweeps of raspberry sauce across plates. A gargantuan cheese trolley, also by Christofle, is being wheeled to one side while a tray of beautiful fresh artichokes is being presented to Frechon for his approval. Choruses of “Service” and “Oui, chef” may also be heard intermittently. It’s all a little bit like seeing a symphony being performed but you will also be keenly aware that art is being created. Literally.

Upstairs, in the dining room, which overlooks the hotel’s famous gardens, meals traditionally begin with freshly baked breads accompanied, always, by the celebrated butter of Jean-Yves Bordier, presented in the shape of a miniature beehive. On the table’s crisp white linen also sits a pretty iridescent crystal papillon by Baccarat. “To remind you of the garden,” I was informed. With only 45 seats, consider yourself lucky to be able to dine at Epicure. There is only one seating each time – a wise move, considering even luncheon can take up to four or five hours. But when dishes like cauliflower mousseline and onion rouge jelly dusted with yolk powder or macaroni gratinated with aged Parmesan and stuffed with black truffles, artichokes and duck foie gras are presented before your eyes, you certainly wouldn’t want to rush. Non, monsieur.

“What I want to achieve at Epicure is to give guests a taste of true French excellence,” says Frechon, via an interpreter. “Even after 20 years, I want them to still remember what they ate here. My main focus has always been to give an exclusive yet unique experience. After all, we are a flagship of fine French cuisine. L’art de vivre de Francais.”

For such a passionate, committed chef, it seems incongruous that Frechon harboured no grand plans of treading the path of grand cuisine. Born on 16 November 1963 in Corbie Sur Somme, Frechon’s first brush with the kitchen was at age 13, shucking oysters for a wage. “I had wanted a bicycle but my father told me the only way I was going to get one was to work for it.” Finding a job in the kitchen, Frechon progressed quickly. “I worked very hard but there was no grand dream, I assure you… more of a progressive evolution. I simply worked hard, learnt more and, soon, came to admire the work of all the grands chefs. I also dreamt a lot.”

Two years on, the young Frechon began hotel school in Rouen, graduating three years later with the school certificate as well as a technical diploma in cooking, ranking among the best in his year. Fast-forward to 2009, Frechon would join the world’s culinary elite, counting himself among the rare few who can claim a staggering three Michelin stars to his name – a task that is harder to maintain than it is to achieve – as well as the  Chef of the Year award. “Maintaining three stars is a daily quest,” he admits. “It is not easy being able to work with the same rigour on a daily basis or, indeed, with the same passion. So, you have to constantly search for it. Inspiration doesn’t come daily nor easily. You have to constantly reflect to find it… I think it is the same for artists and writers,” he smiles.

Frechon does lament, however, that there are fewer great chefs out there these days. “People forget it is all about the education of the palate and awareness of flavours. Not forgetting sheer hard work,” he stresses. “Lots of hard work.”

As Le Bristol is in the midst of celebrating its landmark 90th anniversary, Frechon reveals that a gala dinner is scheduled for 24 October, with “something very French, with touches of 1925” to be prepared by him and his team. Already the international jet-set is abuzz with talk of ‘the dinner of the century’, as everyone eagerly awaits Chef Frechon’s reimagining of Roaring Twenties classics, worthy of Jay Gatsby himself, to be worked off afterwards with drinks and dancing.

Off-duty, however, Frechon favours a simple life. “I like preparing a simple pasta, risotto or roast chicken when friends come over,” although he concedes he “rarely entertains anymore. I have no time!” He does, however, get asked to dinner. “I always tell people to be uncomplicated: choose the best produce possible and use the simplest techniques. If you try too hard, it usually fails,” he says, before adding: “I am often invited by those who try too hard and the result is catastrophic. They will prepare recipes from my books and, when it fails, blame the recipes,” he laughs. “So, invitations to dinner are now becoming increasingly rare!”

The Dinner of the Century will be held on 24 October 2015 at Le Bristol Paris’ Salons, from 1930hrs. Priced at EUR690 per person with a Roaring Twenties dress code, reservations are required. To book, visit lebristolparis.com.