I’d read a letter once, penned by the great chef Michel Rostang, stating how “everyone knows the island of Mauritius – either through personal experience, or as a dream place – the wild landscape of sugar cane, the surrounding sea with its deep and luminous colours, and the legendary kindness of the Mauritian people.†I am fortunate to say I know it through both – as a destination of dreams, sparkling in the Indian Ocean, surrounded by gleaming waters, as well as through personal experience. In search of sun, sea and a cuisine kissed by a medley of cultures, I journeyed there recently, only to be rewarded with the discovery of a beautiful land, cut like a pear-shaped diamond, and whose topography seems to have been moulded by the greatest of all sculptors – He who is divine.
SUN AND CHARM
From the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Le Morne Brabant to the sensuous tips of Trois Mamelles (French for ‘three breasts’), Mauritius’ landscape is ethereal. In certain parts of the island, there is a distinctively African feel. In others, I feel as if I’ve journeyed onto the set of Avatar, with lush green forests and soaring waterfalls that thunder down to earth, like a liquid snow white thunderbolt. To most people, however, the mention of Mauritius summons up two things: the tragic dodo, which once roamed the island freely and undisturbed before sailors hunted it to extinction, as well as the island’s distinctive indigenous Creole culture and cuisine. First settled by the Dutch in 1598, who brought along sugar cane with them, Mauritius then fell to the French, who renamed it ‘Isle de France’, and then to the British in 1810. Under British occupation, the island was promptly renamed ‘Mauritius’, which it has been ever since – although the French still prefer the softer-sounding Île Maurice.
I was told the east coast of the island boasted the best beaches. And, having elected to stay at The Residence Maldives, a charming, colonial-inspired property in the quaint village of Belle Mare, I wasn’t disappointed when I woke up the next morning. Arriving in darkness, having touched down late in the evening and thereafter making the hour-long journey by road to the resort, I chose to immediately retreat to the sanctuary of my room – a four poster-bedded suite done up in whites and creams – accompanied by a much-welcome Dark and Stormy, made using delicious local rum, which Mauritius is famous for.
There is a popular saying that talks about how one falls asleep only to wake up thinking one’s still dreaming. Well, that thought did occur to me the next morning as I opened my eyes to little shards of gold piercing through shuttered windows. Padding over to the balcony in my bare feet, I then basked in the rare luxury of performing a true surya namaskar – saluting the sun with my sight and full consciousness as I watched it slowly cast its glow over the ocean and all its surrounds.
One thing that immediately spells out vacation to me is the prospect of a long, languorous breakfast and, at The Residence, this most civilised way of starting any day takes place after a slow stroll along the white sand beach, complete with mandatory pit stops at every tidal pool, where crawly brittle stars, closely related to starfish, and clumsy hermit crabs abound. It’s also a great place to soak up the soft morning light before sitting down to Mauritian-style omelettes, spiced up with chili and coriander, and platters of luscious tropical fruit.
THE CALL OF LAND AND SEA
Deep-sea fishing is a popular pastime for islanders but sun-worshippers might prefer a more subtle approach to enjoying the deep blue. One of the more pleasurable ways to spend a day would be to hire a catamaran, with the hopping-on point of Trou d’eau Douce conveniently just a few minutes by car from the hotel. Spend hours simply cruising the aquamarine waters, with visits to popular beaches like Île aux Cerfs, named after the stags that once roamed here for the hunting pleasure of wealthy European settlers, thrown in as well as snorkelling stops. If you’re into aquatic activity, plenty of chances abound to try a variety of water sport, including rides on banana boats, parasailing and kayaking.
Those travelling with children should also not miss out on a visit to Casela, a wildlife and adventure park that’s perfect for a whole day out. Little ones would enjoy the chance to pet a baby lion, while mummies and daddies can enjoy the thrill of a Big Cat experience. Casela offers unique and unforgettable chances for guests to have professional, supervised encounters with either its resident lions or cheetahs. If you’re averse to risk, there’s a drive-through option that’ll bring you really close to the park’s fiercer residents without having to leave the safety of a rugged terrain vehicle. If it’s teenagers you’re travelling with, then, perhaps, the adrenaline-inducing options might prove more acceptable. There are quad bikes, Segways, zip line circuits and canyoning to be enjoyed, while those with an ornithological streak should not miss the bird park, home to over a thousand winged beauties, including the Mauritian pink pigeon, endemic to the island but now exceedingly rare and endangered.
For more verdant pleasures, the celebrated Pamplemousses Gardens (now renamed the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden) is a delight to explore – all 37.5ha of it! There is an animal corner, populated with deer, ducks and giant tortoise, but it is the towering trees and rare, magnificent plant species that keep drawing in visitors, which include the special Talipot palm and, of course, the world-renowned giant water lily pond. It is also a pleasure to drive around the island, admiring its unique beauty. Sugar cane plantations are common and plentiful sights, thriving everywhere with ease. If you travel to the south-west, don’t miss what is, perhaps, one of Mauritius’ most unique sights – Chamarel’s
Seven Coloured Earth. This aptly-named natural wonder is said to have been formed by volcanic rock that once cooled at varying temperatures, forming beautiful patterns in the exposed earth. It is lovely to spend an hour or two here, admiring the sheer geological gorgeousness that changes with the light. Don’t miss also the enclosure where several giant tortoises are housed. Before your approach to the different-hued earth, you would have seen the magnificent Chamarel Falls, a spectacular waterfall that takes its name from the local village, named after Charles Antoine de Chazal de Chamarel. Not far away, in the mountain district of Savanne, is Ganga Talao, also referred to as Grand Bassin – a crater lake that is now considered the most sacred place on the island to Mauritian Hindus. Spend hours visiting the many temples dedicated to Hinduism’s main deities or plan your trip to coincide with the major and highly auspicious festival of Maha Shivaratri, where thousands of pilgrims make the journey here from their homes, regardless of how far away they may live, in their bare feet in order to worship and pay homage to Shiva.
HOME FOR THE HEART
If you happen to be staying at The Residence Mauritius, it’s understandable should you wish not to wander out at all. Belle Mare, where the hotel is located, just happens to be home to some of the island’s most beautiful beaches. The alabaster sand cedes to a turquoise lagoon, which then gives way to the deep, dark cobalt of the ocean just beyond. Although the free-form swimming pool (thoughtfully heated during the island’s mild winters) may be the preferred spot for most guests, it is on a beach lounger, right on the soft white sand, that affords the best views of the gemstone-hued waters that glint, depending on the light, like emeralds, sapphires and aquamarines. The hotel’s friendly staff are adept at making cocktails so be sure to try as many rum-based creations as you can.
The Residence’s kids club is amazingly well-run, allowing for plenty of opportunities for parents to sneak in pampering sessions at The Sanctuary, the hotel’s well-appointed and expansive in-house spa. The massage therapies are particularly wonderful, offering a distinctively unique approach to soothing out kinks and knots, while affording relief via a distinctively Mauritian touch. If you need to take things at face value, do know that Carita of Paris is the product of choice here, ensuring Parisian-style perfection for all face and hair treatments. Naturally, all that holiday-induced indulging might necessitate a regime upon one’s return but, if you’re feeling the need to temper it post-haste, sign up for special serenity walks, private meditation, aqua gym or stretching sessions as well as yoga classes while you’re at the spa.
RHYTHM NATION
Made up of an impressive cocktail of race, religion, culture and tradition, it would be sacrilegious to leave Mauritius without experience all the rhythm, colour and music that make up traditional Sega dancing. The locals call it ‘Sega Tipik’ but there’s nothing typical about this lively dance form that has recently been classified by UNESCO as an Intangible World Heritage in November 2014, putting it in the same ranks as New Orleans jazz, Argentine tango and the Royal Cambodian Ballet. Masterfully capturing the heart and soul of Mauritius in a riot of rhythm and colour, it’s not hard to lose oneself in the sensual feast of body-swaying moves and infectious African- and Indian-influenced beats. On certain nights, The Residence Mauritius often puts up a Sega performance, allowing guests to enjoy a multi-dimensional feast as they dine on grilled seafood and freshly-harvested sea urchins. The late astronomer Carl Sagan may have written the famous line on how it is not we who take a trip but, rather, it is the trip that takes us. He must have been referring to a journey here – in his dreams or otherwise.
