The Independent Strikes Back

Two years had come and gone since Guillaume Tetu visited Kuala Lumpur to meet with The Peak for the first time. Given the high rate of attrition among independent watchmakers, it was indeed good to see that the brand Tetu founded a decade ago is hale and hearty in the dog-eat-dog world that is the luxury watch industry.

“I won’t hide the fact that it has been a tough two years,” Tetu acknowledges. “I regret to say that some of my fellow independent watchmakers have disappeared in this period. We are constantly facing increasing pressure from the big groups and it’s getting more difficult for us to establish the correct networks and get the right people on our team.”

Despite the obstacles faced, Hautlence has made big gains in that period, developing exciting new timepieces and expanding its sphere of influence across the world of high horology.

“We’re solidifying the plans we made two years ago to build our brand across South-East Asia,” says Tetu, referring to its recent partnership with Cortina Watch in Singapore and Malaysia. “My partner, Bertrand Meylan, who is the General Manager of Hautlence, is also based in Hong Kong to oversee our operations in the region. Going forward, we are looking to establish our presence in Thailand as well.”

This expansion across South-East Asia coincides nicely with the success of Hautlence’s Destination timepiece, which was introduced as a prototype two years ago and has since met with critical acclaim in horological circles. The upcoming Invictus Morphos chronograph will be unveiled just before Chinese New Year.

“These two timepieces represent a new direction for us as they are the brand’s entry-level timepieces,” Tetu explains. “While we’re continuing the development of our high-end concept timepieces, the Destination and Invictus Morphos are catered to the first collectors of Hautlence who like our design, yet are looking for something a bit more conventional.”

To make the two timepieces, Hautlence had to do something many independents would never dare to do – outsource the movements. This was necessary to keep costs down, given the costly and skill-intensive nature of designing Hautlence’s signature 3D architectural-inspired dials.

“This was a very difficult decision to make as we didn’t want to confuse the consumer about the brand’s identity,” Tetu admits. “But I can say, that after two years, the bet has paid off and we now have a much larger portfolio across the brand. Prior to this, we were selling only two or three pieces a year, which is just not enough for us and our partners; it’s a lot of investment for a very small return. Now, we are aiming to sell 15-20 pieces annually; this is a much healthier working environment for everyone.”

Another advantage of outsourcing the movements is that it frees up resources to be used on designing the dials of the timepieces, which, according to Tetu, remains at the core of Hautlence’s DNA. “Our signature design codes, the TV-screen shaped case, the multi-layered dial and the floating indexes are very difficult to create, but this hard work ultimately pays off as many a collector has been seduced by it at first sight,” says Tetu.

However, due to the high level of expertise required to create the intricate timepieces independent watchmakers are so famous for, many of these brands struggle to acquire the right human capital. This problem has become more prevalent as the big groups continue to grow and absorb increasingly scarce expertise.

“I’m fortunate that the team I set out with has stayed with me since we founded Hautlence,” says Tetu. He says he has been delighted to find that many young watchmakers want to work for him. “They are coming to us because they are attracted by the exciting and varied nature of our work,” he adds.

“If you’re a watchmaker with a big group, it’s likely that you’ll only be responsible for one task in the production line. However, with us, our watchmakers work on an entire timepiece from start to finish. The challenge for us is to find the right people to join our team so that we can continue coming up with new and crazy designs in-house.”

Given the dynamics at play, it should come as no surprise that the path independents take is a lonely and perilous one. However, Tetu says he has no regrets since he co-founded Hautlence a decade ago. “If I had stayed with TAG Heuer, I know I would have a much higher income and an easier life,” reflects Tetu. “But I’m an entrepreneur and I’ve always wanted to create my own story. Of course, there are things I should have done differently, but we just have to learn from our mistakes and move on. After 10 years, I can say that the journey as an independent watchmaker has been a good one.”