Fundamentally, when you think about an ingredient, what is it that determines its worth? Price is, of course, dictated by the economy of demand and supply; but what it’s worth is measured in less tangible factors. Logically, it is the flavours it brings to the dish and, of course, the level of difficulty in obtaining said ingredient that should be the only things to consider. In Malaysia, however, there is yet another element that contributes to what makes an ingredient ‘desirable’ and that, unfortunately, is whether or not it is imported.
Take fish, for example: there is undoubtedly a bias for salmon and cod that has been air-flown into the country as compared to the local varieties of fish. Darren Teoh of Dewakan puts it this way: “Salmon takes about four days to reach our shores but, somehow, when you’re at a Chinese restaurant and the fish they used hasn’t just died 30 seconds ago, you get upset. That’s double standards!†He continues: “I don’t deny that there is good salmon or cod that comes from abroad but what I want to challenge is that why don’t the masses invest in, believe in or pay (a premium) for something that is local?â€
Never has this partiality for imported goods been more apparent than when you look at chocolates. Ong Ning Geng, the founder of Chocolate Concierge, asks: “Why do most people think that for chocolate to be good, it has to be made in European countries when, in fact, they have no access to cocoa in their lands?†In 1990, Malaysia was the third largest producer of cocoa in the world; today, we are still in the top 10. What this means is that, unlike imported fish or grains (quinoa, we’re looking at you), for chocolate, the consumer is actually “paying for a round-trip; paying for the cocoa to be imported from the tropics to Europe, and then back to our shores.â€
Through this photo series, The Peak aims to highlight what it means to champion local ingredients as demonstrated by Teoh and Ong. We follow one ingredient – the cocoa bean – as it makes its way, quite literally, from farm to table, and how it transforms from a fruit of the earth into a product of human ingenuity. And the best part of it all is, it is entirely homegrown.