From the ancient Egyptians with their kohl eyeliner to Jean-Paul Gaultier with his now-defunct male makeup range launched in 2003, cosmetics for men aren’t new. However, it is only in recent years that it feels like this niche might finally become part of the mainstream grooming conversation.
We’re not just talking about big players like Chanel, which launched the Boy de Chanel range that included a foundation and eyebrow pencil in 2018. A slew of startups overseas has set up shop since, selling products ranging from BB (blemish balm) cream to beard filler.
Jake Xu, the co-founder of UK-based Shakeup Cosmetics, says, “When people like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Tom Ford launched their ranges many years ago, the social environment probably wasn’t ready. But quite a few things have changed. For example, Gen Z has become more assertive about society and no longer tolerates unacceptable behaviour.
TONY & MUNRO
“Like women, men want to look good too, but they don’t want anyone else to know they’re wearing cosmetics,” says Ewan Munro Belsey, who launched Tony & Munro with co-founder Tony Tsianakas in 2019.
According to Belsey, theirs is the first Aussie brand focusing on “fusion cosmetics” made for men. In other words, products that are “more absorbent, non-greasy, pore-minimising and leave a matte finish”. Its bestselling products are the eye gel and BB cream. “Our eye gel reduces under-eye puffiness and the BB cream moisturises, protects, revitalises and provides natural-looking, full coverage. During the pandemic, we sold a lot of these two. Consumers moved from wanting to look good and feel confident when going out to looking great for work video calls.”
STRYX
Launched in 2019, American brand Stryx sells “functional cosmetics and skincare” for men. The idea for Stryx was born two years earlier after co-founder Devir Kahan woke up on the day of his wedding with three blemishes, which – contrary to the promises of the photographers – did not get edited out of the photographs.
Today, the brand offers eight products, including a concealer pen, a brow and beard gel comb, and a bronzing gel. Says co-founder Jon Shanahan, “Most men just want a quick fix. Our concealer needs no foundation, sponge or setting spray – just apply, tap and go.” Last year, Stryx expanded its product line and went nationwide with a major retailer, and Shanahan shares that the business is “on pace to grow 350 per cent this year”.
WAR PAINT FOR MEN
Danny Gray, the founder of UK-based War Paint For Men, first discovered the power of makeup at 15, when he borrowed his sister’s concealer to hide his adolescent blemishes. Of the brand he launched in 2019, he says, “Many men want something discreet and will give them that extra boost of confidence.”
Today, War Paint For Men has a range of products, including foundation and concealer. It also offers makeup applicators such as sponges and brushes, which you do not often see in the men’s grooming world, which prefers to keep things simple for its audience. It’s working for the brand, though. In July, it opened its first brick-and-mortar store in London.
SHAKEUP COSMETICS
Launched by brothers Shane Carnell-Xu and Jake Xu in 2019, Shakeup Cosmetics specialises in “hybrid products” with skincare and cosmetic properties. Having had trouble finding cosmetic products for themselves to cover rosacea and blemishes, the brothers created Shakeup. Its line-up comprises a BB cream, an under-eye concealer, a plumping lip gel and a recently launched cucumber moisturising stick.
The brand’s USP, says Xu, is innovation tailored for men, whose skin is generally thicker and oilier and has larger pores than women’s skin. The brand has retail partners in the UK, China and South Africa and ships to many regions worldwide via its e-commerce store. It is expanding its physical footprint into Scandinavia, Australia and New Zealand.
“More men are realising, ‘There’s nothing wrong with looking after myself and my skin, and making myself feel more confident.’ I think the timing is right now.”
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