Jay Khan must be doing something right these past few years. After all, COA – the bar he co-founded at Central in Hong Kong was named best bar in Asia consecutively in 2021, 2022 and 2023. And yes, it is definitely an interesting prospect indeed for anyone set on an awesome night out while in the Chinese megapolis.
Here is a bar where the spirits of Mexico take the spotlight and are showcased for the most discerning cocktail drinkers. But it’s not just Tequila and Mezcal that are being highlighted, but also even more obscure spirits, like Sotol, Bacanora and Raicilla. “Yet, it’s definitely not just about having a great menu,” says Khan.
“More than anything else, what has led to our progression as a bar and a team is perhaps how we went about things. I feel we executed a niche concept quite well, taking bold steps and stepping out of the norm.”
Occupying a compact space down some steps off Hollywood Road, COA is conveniently located on the fringe of the bustling Hong Kong SoHo bar and restaurant precinct.
Created as the expression of the Khan’s passion for the unique spirits and drinking culture of Mexico, the rustic minimalist interior of COA exudes a relaxed, laid-back style of hospitality, where punters have an impressive selection of small-producer agave- based spirits—served neat—or from a list of classic spirit-forward cocktails.
Yet, Khan will also be the first to tell you that it’s not all about the draw of exotic offerings at the bar. “You know, we also do the basics right. For example taking care of our guests, good drinks, good music and making sure we provide a full packaged experience,” he says.
He goes on to say that while night out trends keep shifting, chances are it also mostly depends on where you are. “In Hong Kong,
for instance, we’ve seen a surge of specialty concept bars in the last few years. There’s a revived interest for bars that are classic, simpler and also provide a wide variety of offerings for those looking for a great night out in this city.”
Then, just in May last year, Khan set about launching another cocktail bar, this time with an emphasis on stronger flavours. Aptly named ‘The Savory Project’, this new watering hole is actually just a small bar with only 24 seats—but one will definitely find a line already in place at happy hour every time.
The new concept’s name certainly hides no secrets either. The focus here is definitely savoury drinks, centred on food-driven ingredients. There are just a few alcoholic cocktails to choose from with gentler options (Shiitake Bamboo – shiitake mushroom, spicy umeshu and fortified wine), robust options (Gibson 2.0 – leek, peppers, fortified wines and gin) as well as options that are “extremely savoury” and “extremely complex”, reveals Khan.
But at the end of the day, he also firmly feels it’s important right now for the industry to go back to its roots. “Going back to the basics. Learning how to walk before you run… these things are just as important if you want your bar to succeed. Most new aspiring bartenders are hungry and impatient. It is important to learn the basics of bartending before learning how a rotovap (vacuum distiller used to extract flavours from ingredients) works.”
So, now with two hit bars in Hong Kong under his belt, what’s next for this man with the Midas touch? “Well, we’re definitely just going with the flow,” he says. “Nothing in the loop at the moment. But we did have the brand new four-storey COA Shanghai opening just a few months ago, and that is very much our priority right now.”
Looks like the hits are set to just keep on coming then, eh?