02 TRADITIONAL ENGLISH FARE
If you find yourself yearning to savour the best traditional English fare, then The English Grill at The Rubens at The Palace hotel is unmistakable in its commitment to exceptional dining. The restaurant prides itself in the finest produce with the same suppliers that serve the Queen’s kitchens. An extensive wine list includes selections from Bouchard Finlayson, the restaurant’s sister vineyard in South Africa.
The restaurant harks to Victoriana with refined touches – polished silver adorn the tables while beautiful chandeliers hang from the ceilings. Tailcoat waiters are ever-ready to serve. Twentyfirst century newness comes in the form of a glass wall from which guests can watch the culinary action take place. Quality cuts of meat, meanwhile, are grilled on the charcoal-fired Josper grill.
The menu is reverent in its depictions of British culinary mainstays. On a recent visit, I was delighted to find a glass of prawn cocktail on the menu – a now quaint but no less delectable starter of fresh prawns on a bed of salad with Thousand Island dressing.
On Christmas Day, the menu is equally stirring, starting with a cream of parsnip soup with curried apples and toasted chestnuts. The prawn cocktail has been elevated to a Cornish lobster cocktail. There is also a starter of a Creedy Carver chicken, duck and foie gras terrine with apple and raisin chutney, and a toasted brioche. Textures of Waldorf salad incorporate Cropwell Bishop Stilton, Granny Smith apples, pickled walnuts and celery.
The vote is out on the epic main of a free range bronze black leg turkey with sage and onion stuffing, goose fat thyme roast potatoes, pigs in blankets, honey carrots and parsnips, Brussels sprouts and homemade cranberry sauce. One can also select the Scottish beef fillet drizzled with Madeira sauce and accompanied with a shallot and ale puree , a side of Barber’s Cheddar dauphinoise and curly kale.
The English Grill has also raised the bar on the humble Scotch egg, highlighting it with wild mushroom and truffle while accompanying it with the more traditional vegetarian bubble and squeak, celeriac puree and Savoy cabbage pesto. The restaurant’s signature grilled Dover sole is filleted at the table and comes with parsley new potatoes, spinach and hollandaise sauce.
For dessert, a mulled wine poached pear finds a happy marriage with a cinnamon biscuit, blackberry compote and vanilla ice cream. Those with predilection for chocolate would love the salted caramel and chocolate tart topped with raspberry ripple ice cream. Traditionalists would opt for the selection of British cheese with an array of trimmings— celery, grapes, homemade chutneys and oatcake biscuits. Coffee and mince pies end the evening on a well sated note.
