The facade of the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
It’s my first time in Hanoi, and I barely know what to expect.
My journey from Noi Bai Airport to my destination took me through a typical Vietnamese landscape of green paddy fields as motorcycles and mopeds whizzed past from all directions in a haphazard display of normal daily life in Hanoi. I couldn’t help but feel a rush of adrenaline from this somewhat familiar yet foreign environment.
As the driver turns into the Old Quarter of the city, it almost feels like arriving in a corner of Europe with its narrow lanes boulevards, and charming cafes. They’ll tell you it’s a bit like being in France, but there’s something distinctively Vietnamese about the neighbourhood that I couldn’t quite put my finger on, and that’s not just because of the many national flags dotted along the streets or the extreme humidity.
“You’re lucky you’re visiting this week,” says one of the hotel staff as he takes my suitcase. “Last week, we reached 40 degrees!”
Even to a Malaysian, that temperature, I admit, is staggering.
The Foyer of Heritage Wing
I have just checked into The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi and am ushered to its newly refurbished Heritage Wing which is part of the original structure of the hotel that was founded in 1901. The extensive refurbishment took 21 months to complete and has been especially meaningful to the city in conserving its beloved “Grande Dame”, as the hotel is sometimes referred to.
The Metropole Heritage Wing sees a revitalisation of some of the best traditional aspects of the hotel’s original design that captures the city’s bygone glamour. One of the most striking features is the original wooden staircase next to the lobby that winds up to the guest rooms. The wooden bannisters and handrails have been meticulously preserved as if brand new.
The Heritage Wing lobby combines heritage furnishings woth a modern touch.
The room design is given an uplift through the bright and airy layout. Most importantly, they are comfy and homely. Staying here is like being the guest of an eccentric relative with impeccable taste.
Led by Singapore-based David Grace Designs International, the 103 guest rooms are accentuated with French colonial decor and some Vietnamese influences in the furniture. Even some of the natural wooden flooring in the guest rooms were also either refurbished or replaced, lending an air of authenticity to the space.
There are also the tastefully furnished Metropole suites and the three iconic Legendary suites, named after former guests: Charlie Chaplin, who resided at the hotel while on honeymoon with his third wife in 1936, British playwright and author Somerset Maugham, who penned part of his travel writings The Gentleman in the Parlour here and another suite, named after Graham Green who famously wrote his novel, The Quiet American while lodging here.
HERE TO STAY
As we’re on the subject of name-dropping, in more recent years, a rather not-so-quiet American made headlines when he stopped by for a visit in 2019. Then US President Donald Trump had his meeting with North Korean leader Kim Jong-un during the Hanoi Summit here (although the two leaders didn’t end up staying the night).
Apart from hosting illustrious guests— from diplomats, Hollywood stars and writers—the hotel was also the backdrop for many pivotal moments in history.
First opened by French entrepreneurs in 1901 as Grand Hotel Metropole, it was then known as the “largest and best-appointed hotel in Indo-China”. After Vietnam gained independence from France in 1954, the hotel was briefly renamed Thong Nat or ‘Reunification Hotel’. When it was later caught in the crosshairs of the Vietnam War, the hotel miraculously remained unscathed from the blanket bombings in Hanoi.
Today, a piece of that moment in time can be found underneath its structure. In 2011, an underground bomb shelter was discovered and is now part of a tour that guests can take part in.
Metropole Bamboo Bar
Built sometime in the 1960s, the bunker remained hidden until it was unearthed by the hotel’s engineering team through a staircase underneath the hotel’s famed Bamboo Bar. The shelter was built to protect guests from the American air strikes and it was here that singer and activist Joan Baez composed her song Where Are You Now, My Son? during an air raid in 1972. The lyrics are today hung on the wall of the bunker.
Guests are given hard hats before entering the series of winding tunnels, a scene that almost remains the same as it did all those years ago. Today, the bomb shelter serves as a sombre reminder of the courage and perseverance of the people.
TOP TABLES
While many come here to learn about the past and what’s left of it, Hanoi’s allure also lies in its food scene, possibly made even more notable through the popular image of Anthony Bourdain and Barack Obama sitting on low plastic stools, chugging local beer at a local eatery from Bourdain’s Parts Unknown series.
Hanoi is a city for food lovers the world over. As Bourdain once said of the unique atmosphere of Vietnam’s food scene” “All of the things I need for happiness: Low plastic stool, check. Tiny little plastic table, check. Something delicious in a bowl, check.”
Le Beaulieu in Metropole Hanoi
Given the romance of a perfect meal in mind, I set out to discover just what the city’s food scene had to offer. On the hotel’s recommendation, I took up a seat at Le Beaulieu, which legend says is the first-ever French restaurant in Hanoi. I had been told great things about Le Beaulieu, but the one that I’m often reminded of is that it’s a place where anyone who is anyone in Vietnam would dine.
The kitchen is helmed by Marseille-born Chef Charles Degrendele who brings a sustainable and sophisticated approach to the menu highlighting classic French dishes. I opted for the lobster bisque and went for the Japanese A5 Kuroge wagyu sirloin for the mains and they are both outstanding. There’s also an exceptional wine list and a bar area for a late-night rendezvous.
Another impressive meal I had at the hotel was the afternoon tea at Le Club. The scones, which are made fresh daily, were the best I’ve ever tasted. Le Club is also where breakfast is served in the mornings and it is my favourite time of day here. The light pours in through the large French windows overlooking the hotel’s courtyard, giving an air of cheerfulness as guests enjoy breakfast in the convivial setting.
For tea lovers, there’s a dizzying selection of teas to try here, from Vietnamese black teas to tropical oriental blends to herbal infusions and artisan blends. But one thing I have learned to discover about Hanoi is it’s a city for coffee lovers. From European-style cafes to hipster spots to traditional coffee shops, there’s something for every taste and there are plenty to be found within a short stroll from the hotel in the Old Quarter.
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After my highly caffeinated frenetic food tour, I made a point to pay a visit to the hotel’s Le Spa du Metropole for a massage and to escape the scorching heat. To get to the spa, you’ll have to walk past the pool area which in the mornings is a bustling centre of activity, but calms down towards the afternoon as guests doze underneath the shade of the parasols.
Look around and it’s easy to see why this place has enticed so many of those who have walked through its doors for the past century. It has a real charm and character, and a resilience that has stood the test of time.
As the saying goes, they just don’t make ‘em like they used to.
