The lights are on at the still house of Port Ellen distillery to see in a new dawn in whisky. (Photo by Port Ellen Distillery)
White-washed brick walls of the legendary Port Ellen distillery stand as silent sentinels on Islay’s shores, a poignant reminder of a bygone era. For four decades, these walls bore witness to the relentless passage of time, their steadfast façade masking the crumbling structures within. The distillery’s coastal warehouses, once bustling with activity, had long been reduced to homes for a few lonely, maturing casks. Yet, even in its silence, Port Ellen was far from forgotten.
As the years rolled by, the remaining drops of Port Ellen whisky became increasingly rare and cherished. Single malt enthusiasts from around the world sought out each scarce bottle, willing to pay exorbitant sums to taste the legacy of a distillery that had ceased production in 1983. The mystique of Port Ellen grew with each passing year, its name synonymous with a lost treasure of the whisky world.
Still House at Port Ellen distillery. (Photo by Port Ellen Distillery)
But now, a new era beckons. With Diageo’s monumental £185 million investment, the distillery has been resurrected, breathing new life into its venerable halls. After 40 years, the unmistakable smoky, oily spirit of Port Ellen once again flows through its stills, a homage paid to both its storied past and its visionary future.
The team behind this ambitious revival describes it as a “radical transformation,” one that honours Port Ellen’s pioneering heritage while forging a trailblazing path forward. The distillery’s essence remains, producing the same distinctive smoky, oily, and fruity single malt that has captivated whisky lovers for decades. Port Ellen now also stands as a beacon of experimentation, where the realms of art and science intersect.
Gone are the original stills, lost to time and the ravages of the ‘whisky loch’ era. In their place, meticulous replicas have been crafted from historical blueprints. These Phoenix Stills, named to symbolise rebirth, work alongside a smaller, experimental pair. The focus here is to chart an ‘Atlas of Smoke,’ an innovative digital visualisation capturing the evolving chemical composition of Port Ellen’s spirit through various experimental processes.
Phoenix stills in the glass stillhouse. (Photo by Port Ellen Distillery)
This includes trailing different yeast strains, barley varieties, and peating levels, as well as employing the industry’s first 10-part spirit safe. The two pairs of copper stills allow for multiple narrow cuts, enabling an unprecedented separation of flavours and characters from the heart of the spirit.
“Port Ellen holds a very special place in the hearts of passionate whisky aficionados, and to see spirit flow off these stills once again is an incredible moment for the Islay community and wider whisky world,” said Ali McDonald, Master Distiller at Port Ellen.
Aimée Morrison, Port Ellen Master Blender, added and spoke of the future of the distillery and its whisky, “We will better understand how the nuanced flavours from cask-to-cask shine in different ways; with the rolling smoke weaving its way through the heart of Port Ellen. Collectively we will endeavour to maintain the undeniable quality of Port Ellen, create whiskies for the future and take the amazing opportunity to learn as much as we can about the enigma of smoke.”
Sustainability is a core principle of the new Port Ellen. The distillery has been designed to be carbon neutral, utilising renewable energy sources and optimising water and heat recycling. The on-site laboratory reduces the need for shipping samples back to the mainland, streamlining the experimentation process and further minimising environmental impact.
Photo by Port Ellen Distillery
Visitors to Port Ellen will find themselves in a space that feels more like a postmodern design museum than a traditional distillery. Clean, modern architecture, with influences from Scandinavian and Japanese design trends, blends seamlessly with the rugged beauty of Islay. While most original buildings were beyond saving, the former kiln has been transformed into a futuristic, multimedia-tasting experience and sample library, crowned by the iconic pagoda roof.
To commemorate this grand reopening, Diageo has unveiled Port Ellen Gemini, a twin set of 44-year-old single malts distilled in 1978. This release, the distillery’s oldest expression to date, offers a tantalising glimpse into the past and a celebration of its rebirth. With only 274 sets available, each priced at £45,000, Port Ellen Gemini will be a collector’s dream.
Ewan Andrew, Aimée Morrison and Ali McDonald open Port Ellen distillery (Photo by Port Ellen Distillery)
What’s more, starting in June, whisky aficionados can once again walk through the distillery’s storied halls to explore its offerings. Experiences range from full-day private immersions to shorter introductions to the production process. On the first Saturday of every month, the distillery will open its doors for anyone on Islay to witness the crafting of Port Ellen spirit.
As the town of Port Ellen buzzes with life, from the rise of the Portintruan distillery to the revival of the Islay Hotel, times certainly are changing. Once a silent relic of whisky’s past, the rocky, windswept beaches of Islay are now buzzing with the hum of production, the clink of glasses, and the murmur of stories shared at Port Ellen. The distillery’s iconic walls no longer stand as mere reminders of what once was, but as a symbol of what is yet to come.
