First things first, if you happen to find yourself in Anantara Layan Phuket, please do yourself a favour and order the cacio e pepe from the lunch menu at Breeze. It may be the best one you’ll ever get your hands on, (dare I say it) in Southeast Asia. With its perfect creamy consistency and a touch of lemon zest, it’s absolutely magnificent. I have just checked in to the resort which is set on the cusp of a national park in Phuket’s northwest coast.
Anantara Layan is one of those rare properties on the island that actually offers solitude from the bustling tourist scene Phuket has become familiar with. (Fun fact: the TV series Mother of the Bride with Brooke Shields and Benjamin Bratt was filmed here.) My beachfront villa comes with direct access to the private sandy beach and a private pool, providing just the right amount of seclusion for my stay. The rooms are spacious and my villa comes with a separate living space and a bathroom that is almost the same size as the bedroom. The interiors are serene with a touch of traditional Thai design elements in the woodwork and decor. If you yearn for longer stays in this idyllic setting, there are even hillside residences up for grabs.
Unpretentious is the best word to describe the atmosphere throughout the property. Even the public areas, such as the lobby and the spa, are surrounded by nature and give you a feeling of tranquillity the moment you walk in. There’s a pretty good chance you’ll be able to channel your inner self in all sorts of ways at the spa. With its expert execution of traditional Asian and Western techniques, I opted for one of their signature treatments, the Anantara Signature Massage.
The hand movements stimulate the circulation as a way to deeply relax the muscles. There are also a bit of reflexology moves thrown in, removing any energy blockages. Once I’ve rid myself of all the negative vibes in my system, it’s time for dinner. The dining here (as exhibited by the excellent cacio e pepe) is outstanding. In fact, one of the main reasons for my visit is to try out a new opening at the resort, Dara Cuisine, which opened its doors earlier this year.
Dara which means ‘star’ in Thai is more than just a new dining concept for the resort. The menu here is modern Thai cuisine with a focus on celebrating the region’s bountiful local produce, but what really piqued my interest is the observatory deck on the rooftop of the restaurant, where guests can actually participate in stargazing sessions.
Accessible via a short buggy ride from the resort’s main building, the restaurant is nestled on a lagoon and is helmed by chef Supakarn, who brings a delightful presentation of Thai dishes from various parts of the country from the North, Central and the Southern regions.
For starters, Supakarn suggested I try a few dishes from the charcoal grill. The peek gai yang or chicken wings, sea salt and lime and a mix of northern spices is one of those dishes where you can’t help but get your hands dirty with. Meanwhile, the sweet corn with butter soy and Thai herbs showcases how the restaurant lifts the simplest ingredients.
Some of the restaurant’s signature dishes include khao soi curry noodle soup made with river prawns and served with homemade egg noodles is a dream as well as the tam ka moon mun wan of pounded young jackfruit salad served with sweet potato chips. A highlight for me was the beef cheeks curry served with the most delicious roti, a fancier and flakier version of the roti we have back home in Malaysia. They take their produce very seriously here, with a true pride for anything homemade.
You’ll find an on-site fermentation kitchen, a herb garden, and a barrel-aged fish sauce cellar. The restaurant has also partnered with local farms where the menu can really highlight the best seasonal produce and is something chef Supakarn is passionate about. The interiors here are also an ode to the local artisan heritage, with regional crafts and northern wood carvings and woven baskets in the decor.
After a lovely meal, it’s only fitting we end the night by (weather permitting) gazing at the stars. Using cutting-edge technology with the largest telescope you’ll find on the island, the staff (who are all well-versed in astronomy) will be able to guide you through the constellations in the night sky. It was raining earlier in the day but, as luck would have it, the heavens cleared up while I was having my dinner.
As the rainclouds have yet to fully disperse, there weren’t many visible stars in the sky that evening. My “star expert” showed me some of the images she had taken via the telescope just a few weeks back, showing a close-up of the surface of the moon, with craters so clear you feel you could almost reach out and touch it. I ask if she’s ever spotted a UFO through one of these lenses. “Not yet, but that would be really cool,” she says almost matter-of-factly.