Wearing a watch by Stepan Sarpaneva is akin to parading a Jean-Michel Basquiat on your wrist. Each of his painstakingly crafted timepieces, from the Art Deco- esque open-worked creations to their slithering bracelets, look like fever dreams from his inquisitive mind.
Unlike top-tier pieces from mainstream brands, Sarpaneva’s eponymous watches don’t cost an arm and a leg. Nevertheless, they aren’t easy to get hold of. The Finn makes only 50 to 100 watches a year, each of which he brings to life by hand, etch by etch, brushstroke by brushstroke.
His vaunted calling card: the moon. The celestial satellite is not just a highly sought-after indication and icon in watch collecting, but his obsession. Beyond adopting the moon phase as a signature, Sarpaneva hand-chisels the motif with a bold, cheeky expression that brings to mind French film director Georges Melies’ silver-screen depictions.
It isn’t just his one-of-a-kind artistry and limited production that command the industry’s esteem; he has the right pedigree. “When Kari Voutilainen was my boss, and I was his right hand at Parmigiani, I learnt the basics of making a stunning watch. When I went to work for Vianney Halter, our heads were always outside the box. There are rules, but Vianney emphasises that you don’t need to respect them,” he says.
Why Sarpaneva Watches Feel Personal, Not Commercial
After nearly 10 years of cutting his teeth at several maisons, which include Piaget and Christophe Claret, Sarpaneva founded his namesake brand in 2003. This was followed a year later with the launch of S.U.F (Sarpaneva Uhren Fabrik) Helsinki, initially targeted at his domestic market, which produces more affordable pieces and has since transcended global borders.
Today, Sarpaneva is well-known for his “grail watches” like the kaleidoscopic hand-painted Nakki; the hand-engraved collaboration of Sarpaneva x Moomin, the latter Finland’s most famous cartoon character; and the MoonMachine 2 in partnership with MB&F.
Bearing his artistry are two new limited editions celebrating Moomin’s 80th anniversary this year. Available at The Hour Glass is the Sarpaneva Moomin 80, which features a skeletonised steel shooting star aperture atop snoozing Moomins. Just as whimsical is the S.U.F Helsinki x Moomin, which retails at Watches of Switzerland, in a new diver’s watch case with an engraved bronze turning bezel. Both come in a 42mm steel case with two dial colour choices.
Sarpaneva Moomin 80
You were in Singapore at IAMWATCH last year. What role have retailers played in your success?
Stepan Sarpaneva: Retailers like The Hour Glass are super important because people know that the watches they carry are quality products. I chased Michael Tay of The Hour Glass around watch fairs for years, saying, “Hi, I am here! I have watches available!” They have also helped consumers become more knowledgeable about timepieces.
You’ve certainly carried your brand on your back for nearly 22 years. How hands-on are you now?
I still work on all my watch dials and assemble them myself, but I sometimes leave the finishing and cleaning to my staff because they have better eyesight.
How a Love for the Night Sky Shaped an Iconic Design Language
The S.U.F Helsinki x Moomin also celebrates the 80th anniversary of the Finnish childhood cartoon character
Speaking of handmade dials, tell us about your fixation on the moon.
The moon happened by accident. In Finland, the darkness of wintertime is fascinating. You will be inspired when you look up at the Finnish night sky.
Before I had a booth at the BaselWorld watch fair, I would carry my watches in my backpack and meet potential customers in restaurants around the fair. Vianney called me one day, saying that Philippe Dufour felt too old to attend the fair and asked if I wanted his spot.
My Korona models had grill dials, but just a yellow dot indicated the moon phase. That’s not enough! I knew that I needed to make a showpiece for the fair.
Looking back at what brands like Breguet had done in the past, I saw that no moon phases had faces at that point. I drew some sketches and made the tooling for it; the rest is history. Some people say it looks like me!
Created in 2003, the crescent-motif stainless steel Moonbridge bracelet fits every Sarpaneva 42mm Korona case
How did your unique crescent-motif Moonbridge bracelet come about?
Our bracelet is a separate piece of jewellery, making it is a totally different story. Bracelets need to be reliable, comfortable, and easy to use. I looked to the Rolex Oyster bracelet, which has worked well for years, and shaped it differently into my style.
What are your plans for the nearfuture with the Sarpaneva brand?
I have so many things that I would love to do, but I have no time to. I want to continue telling the Sarpaneva story while still creating distinctive watches. And this year is the 80th anniversary of Moomin.
Carving His Own Orbit in a Universe of Giants
The MB&F MoonMachine 2 collaboration between Max Busser and Stepan Sarpaneva
What are the advantages of operating a watch company in Northern Europe, far from Switzerland’s borders?
That’s precisely it! In Finland, I am doing my stuff. Some Swiss brands are married to the industry — some ask suppliers what colour of dials everyone else is ordering and book the same. That does not influence me; I don’t have to follow trends, and I make what I enjoy. We have to credit brands like A. Lange & Sohne. People said this about Lange:
“But it’s made in Germany! Is it of the same value?” Brands like Lange have proven that they provide a high level of quality and service, so for brands based outside Switzerland, we have to thank them for winning the buyers’ trust and maintaining their reputation.
Stepan Sarpaneva
Do you have advice for new independent watchmakers trying to grow their brand?
Many young watchmakers want to build their watches but not repair watches. Repairing thousands of watches helps watchmakers improve their skills, and customers will be able to see the difference in quality.
Style combines many aspects of a watch, from the case and shape to the movement. Look for what might make your watch enjoyable, and build a reliable watch that will tell time accurately for a hundred years.
*This story was written by Andre Frois and originally published on The Peak Singapore.
