10 Standout Releases from Watches & Wonders 2024

What’s hot at this year’s Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva? We highlight the unmissable timepieces on show.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea 

Weighing at a hefty 330 grams (approximately), the new Rolex 18ct yellow gold Deepsea is one brawny tool watch and the brand’s first deep-sea diver’s watch in yellow gold with a combination of ceramic and RLX titanium. Its compression ring is made from blue ceramic and decorated with a circular satin finish to form part of the Ringlock system, a feature that enables the watch to withstand the intense pressure of the deep. 

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738/1R 

There’s no denying, there’s a trend for daintier pieces this year. Patek Philippe has welcomed the Golden Ellipse in its first metal bracelet version, 1970s-inspired chain-style links in rose gold. Paired with a sunburst ebony black dial, the design is accentuated with a baton-type hour marker and slim-type hands also in rose gold. This handsome timepiece is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding 240 calibre. 

Cartier Privé Tortue Monopusher 

Cartier Prive Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph (Credit: Cartier)

First introduced in 1912, the Cartier Tortue takes on a new spin this year as part of Cartier’s Privé collection. The new take comes in two versions, with the most striking being the two mono-pusher chronographs in either platinum or yellow gold (each limited to 200 pieces) and also a diamond set platinum version (limited to 50 pieces).  The timepiece is powered by a 4.3mm thick movement, which is Cartier’s thinnest chronograph. 

Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper Chronograph 

If there is such a thing as the perfect yacht watch, it’s the new Carrera Skipper Chronograph crafted in 18ct  5N rose gold that follows Tag Heuer’s successful Carrera Skipper Chronograph in steel. Enhanced with the Heuer 02 in-house calibre, the 39mm case features both fine brushed and polished finishes with a captivating sea-blue dial and contrasting subdials. The colour scheme of Lagoon Green, Intrepid Teal and Regatta orange is an homage to the Skipper’s original design and a tribute to Tag Heuer’s maritime legacy. 

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

At this year’s Watches & Wonders fair, it’s all about how slim you can go. Bulgari has set the record (again) for the thinnest timepiece with its Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC which broke Richard Mille’s reigning record for the RM UP-01, by 0.05mm. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra comes in at an impressive 1.7mm thickness, making it the thinnest chronometer-certified watch ever. This remarkable feat of engineering is limited to 20 pieces. 

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 

Here’s the skinny on Piaget’s hottest release this year, the ultra-thin Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon took over three years of research and development. This new version now comes with a tourbillon, a remarkable technical feat at 41.5 mm in diameter. 

Van Cleef & Arpels The Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

 

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A little fairy garden is brought to life in this little Van Cleef & Arpels collection which comes in a day or night version. The day version as seen here is encased in a 41mm white gold case. Inside, a golden fairy gathers flowers under the rays of the sun. Van Cleef & Arpels utilised the Façonne Enamelling technique to craft miniature 3D sculptures where the enamels are set in a similar fashion to gemstones. A true showcase of the Maison’s technical prowess. 

Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé 

The Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé was first designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, a timepiece that up until today, still boasts a distinctive design. The new version features a lozenge-like striped guilloché motif dial with an anthracite coating and comes with two complications; a tourbillon and a minute repeater, making this  Hermés’ most complicated watch yet. The central triple-axis tourbillon houses a 5Hz balance wheel, while the minute repeater features a gong construction, producing cathedral bell-like chimes. 

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen 

 

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A name like “honeygold” conjures up the image of golden-hued goodness. The warm glow of the 41.5mm case crafted in 18ct Honeygold doused in luminous coating, makes for a striking feature. The timepiece is complemented by a handful of features from a flyback chronograph, jumping minute counter, perpetual calendar and tourbillon and even stop-seconds mechanism. 

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 

To mark the 20th anniversary of The Patrimony, Vacheron Constantin has released three new classics, with two new time-only 39mm models and one with a moonphase and retrograde date. First introduced in 2004, the Patrimony model is inspired by the minimalist design of 1950s dress watches. The 39mm version shown here in white gold is now 1mm smaller than the previous model and with a silver sunburst-finished dial. This timepiece is powered by the manual winding calibre 1440 and a closed caseback, perfect for engraving. 

Zenith Defy Revival A3648

 

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The Defy A3648 dive watch from 1969 resurfaces this year in a diminutive 37mm wide case package. Zenith opted for an orange bezel and dial, a striking contrast to the dark features of the watch. As the first-ever purpose-built diver from the Defy series, the watch comes with 600m water resistance and a sapphire bezel insert. 

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