Hermes Spring/Summer 2024
Transformed contexts can shift perception. Tailoring, once emblematic of power and success, can now be worn by a new generation as an expression of individuality. As the season quickens to Spring/Summer 2024, a good deal of fashion trends are taking over from runway to physical. Fashion houses have a passionate dialogue between heritage and reinventions that informs the present and shapes the future.
Spring/Summer 2024 menswear is elevated and proposed with a new intersection. These collections bring forward and respond to a contemporary reconsideration of history. It is a challenge, and ongoing dialogue, of what makes a man today.
This season, Pharrell Williams made his highly anticipated debut as the new Creative Director of Louis Vuitton menswear; Dior, meanwhile, headlined the runway show with its stage elevation behind the creative mind of Kim Jones, while romantic thinker, Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, showcased clusters of one collection with touches of romanticism. Here are the highlights of some classic yet contemporary menswear collections from each fashion house.
Spring/Summer 2024 Menswear
Louis Vuitton
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A stunning launch for Pharrell Williams and the fashion capital of the world. Louis Vuitton’s Creative Director for Menswear lit up the capital on the mythical Pont Neuf with an eagerly anticipated runway show. Williams’ first Spring/Summer 2024 collection unveiled a unique reinterpretation of the Louis Vuitton universe.
Photo courtesy of Louis Vuitton
From ready-to-wear to laser-cut bags, a truly distinctive imaginary world is carried with variations on the emblematic checkerboard motif as well as camouflage, prints and jacquards. The designer paid tribute to his native Virginia with the “LVERS” emblem, while the Marque L. Vuitton Déposée logo, taken from the archives, also appeared throughout the collection.
Accessories, meanwhile, come in several different types of leather, or with vibrant hues and are branded “Lovers” with the stylised letters L and V.
Hermes
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Under Véronique Nichanian, Hermès Summer 2024 menswear is made as architecture, constructed with the weightlessness of daylight, of openwork. It is a collection soft and sweet as a summer breeze, stirred by a tender strength. For this collection, the key motif reveals transparencies; it discloses the subtle layering and relief effects of materials.
Photo courtesy of Hermes
When the summer is serene and joyful, dress in slightly longer jackets and slim trousers to embark on summer adventures. Shorts, jackets and short trench coats are unequivocally sensual. Built for comfort in extreme heat, the colour palette is a mineral, and technical fabrics vibrate gently with summery iridescence.
Dior
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A new wave for Dior Summer 2024 men’s collection was dreamed up by Kim Jones. Embracing tradition and subversion, this Dior Summer 2024 line centred around a collage of influences and pop iconography. The collection draws inspiration from the silhouettes created by Dior icons and the acclaimed house’s artistic director in reinterpreted and transformed masculine wardrobe.
Photo courtesy of Dior
Playful modernity, practicality and ease are infused with the appearance of archetypal menswear items from the Harrington jacket to the Cardigan sweater. The transformation from ordinary to extraordinary is presented through symbolic techniques including embroideries. A multiplicity of bags and accessories further punctuate the looks for Spring/Summer 2024.
LOEWE
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Dwarfed by Lynda Benglis’ gigantic, water-spouting fountains, LOEWE presents its Spring/Summer 2024 men’s collection, studied on how perceptions and scales draw silhouettes. As ever for LOEWE, the power of the unexpected act turns things around. Crystals swarm over entire surfaces, like filters, or meticulously drawn stripes and pinstripes.
Photo courtesy of LOEWE
Blazers, coats, banker shirts, knitted polos, twin sets, argyle knits, jeans and chinos are what the collection consists of. Shoes grow into trousers, giving the impression of cloth coming out of the ground. Accessories become pieces of clothing, while a crystal hummingbird on a shredded brocade top and crystal-embellished sunglasses stand out.
Oversized bags, such as the suede Pebble bucket and Puzzle Fold totes, add further elements to the cerebral palette of soft pastels and solid hues.
Giorgio Armani
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When elegance meets beauty – Giorgio Armani unveiled his mainline Spring/Summer 2024 collection continuing the aspect of stealth-wealth and quiet-luxury trend. The showcase of classic styles was played out against the backdrop of a blank page and a giant pencil with an all-white runway. There was a type of the beginning for Mr Armani, where timeless and modern looks are revisited with bold prints and formal tailoring.
Photo courtesy of Giorgio Armani
A fresh story unfolds. As a direct reference to the first men’s collection in 1975, Spring 2024 menswear weaves familiar elements together from a new angle to create a fascinating yarn. Everything comes together by utilising close-up prints woven with wine coconut leaves on baggy tops, pants and bags.
Silhouettes embrace fluidity and elongation, entwining threads that evoke intricate knots and summery weaves, creating a vibrant rhythm of geometric patterns.
Valentino
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The Valentino Narratives menswear Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli is a moment to redefine the identity of men, to re-examine the meaning of masculinity for a modern perspective on menswear.
“We are so old, we have become young again.” Likewise, the past can be part of the present. The Narratives is a collection anchored in the rules of tailoring, in the timeless masculine wardrobe presented in Milano, where Valentino Garavani staged the first Valentino menswear show in 1985.
Photo courtesy of Valentino
For Valentino The Narratives, sartorial blazers and coats are worn with brief shorts, affording youth and energy, softened and eased. Classic workwear pieces, the familial uniforms of masculinity are given delicacy, while shapes throughout are subtly evolved.
Emblems of affection and tenderness: words from author Hanya Yanagihara’s “A Little Life” are placed on garments and floral-embroidered totems presented on the runway re-envisioned formalwear for the collection.
Givenchy
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Continuing an exploration of classic gentlemen’s wardrobe, Givenchy Artistic Director Matthew M Williams presented his Spring/Summer 2024 Men’s collection in reimagining a new culture of masculine elegant dressing. Utilitarian, technical and military details appear on nylon outerwear and sleeveless tops, plays of webbing, bags worn around the waist and backpacks.
Photo courtesy of Givenchy
The school uniform was among the archetypes studied in the collection. Proportions oscillate stylishly in flowing pieces such as longline t-shirts decorated with oversized grommets, cutout sweaters with elongated sleeves and wide-leg flared trousers. Layered plays on alternating lengths figure at the heart of the collection.
The collection opened and closed with monochrome white and black silhouettes that revisit the art of men’s tailoring, fusing elegance and freedom.
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