Watch straps don’t typically get much ink, but this certainly isn’t reflective of their role in the realm of horological appreciation. You can’t look at a watch without looking at the part that’s going to keep it on your wrist, and changing the strap can give the accessory – yes, it is ultimately still an accessory – an entirely different look and feel.
Everyone loves variety, and brands are catching on. Some of them aren’t just rolling out multiple additional bands (like Panerai did with 11 new alligator straps in 2014), but making them remarkably simple to switch at home, tools not required. Stylish women’s models like Bulgari’s Serpenti and Hublot’s colourful Big Bang Pop Art One Click are among the early adopters, but this trend isn’t just for the ladies. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Atelier Reverso customisation programme lets clients choose their Reverso straps, while Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas masculine models come with three bands – metal bracelet, leather strap and rubber strap. All held in place, again, by mechanisms designed for easy fitting and removal.
And they can’t just look good; they have to be comfortable. This is especially true for metal bracelets, as links have to be carefully engineered to rest perfectly on your skin. That doesn’t mean makers of leather straps have it easy. An Hermes watch strap, which is made from the same leather as its bags, goes through a 12-step process. IWC and Roger Dubuis have turned to shoemakers Santoni and Massaro respectively for leather and unique designs. Even the workhorse rubber strap has been taken to the next level – Hublot, for one, has jazzed up its versions by combining rubber with unlikely materials like denim and leather. The possibilities are endless, but here’s a primer on what’s out there.
BAND AID
From basic to iconic, these are the bracelets and straps you need to know about.
03 ROLEX PRESIDENT
It may not have as long a history as the Oyster or Jubilee bracelets, but Rolex’s President band, introduced in 1956, is the brand’s most luxurious – and is used only for its highest-end Day-Date models. It combines the Oyster’s three-link design with the Jubilee’s semi-circular links, and is only ever crafted in gold or platinum and paired with the Rolex Crownclasp for a smooth, comfortable fit.
ROLEX DAY-DATE 40
A HELPING HAND
General tips for the strap-shifting DIY enthusiast.
01 HAVE PROPER TOOLS
Most watches use spring bars to hold the straps to the watch, so use a spring bar tool for watches with drilled lugs. It also won’t hurt to have some spare spring bars, in case you break or lose the one you’re using. For watches with screw bars instead of spring ones, a set of jeweller’s screwdrivers should do the trick. These come in different sizes so get a complete set if you’re unsure of what size you need.
02 PROTECT YOUR WATCH
Most guides will advise you to work with the underside of the watch facing up to prevent accidental scratches to the crystal, but some find it easier to work with the watch on the side. Either way, it’s good to cover the case with masking tape or layers of thick cling wrap before you begin. You can place your watch in a non-metallic vice for better grip.
03 PREPARE YOUR WORKSPACE
It will take some time and patience if this is your first time (experienced strap swoppers claim to be able to do the job with a paper clip), so make sure you have a well-lit, spacious surface to work on. Lower your chair as far as you can so you’ll be as close to your watch as possible, while also giving your elbows a rest – yes, just like an actual watchmaker.
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