Paul Mescal wearing Cartier.
Like it or not, a growing number of noted horological houses these days no longer distinguish between men’s and women’s watches in their collections. And something that backs up this statement happened only a few months back at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. The world-renowned horological fair, held recently in April, hosted a very popular panel discussion—Towards a Non- Gendered Watch—to debate watches designed outside of the traditional male/female lines.
During this, Rolf Studer, the CEO of independent Swiss brand Oris, pointed out that the increase in female collectors is a sign that the watch world in general is becoming more, well, inclusive. “I think it’s a sign of the coming of age of the whole industry,” he was quoted as saying to the media. “Watch enthusiasm is becoming a thing. Fifteen years ago, watch collecting was a nerdy hobby, and now suddenly it’s a cool lifestyle that women participate in too.”
And it’s not just all talk from Studer, either. In 2021, Oris’ Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ edition did break the gender barrier, becoming a timepiece that both men and women were equally excited about. Studer went on to say that the watch was actually inspired by his wife, who wanted a smaller version of the brand’s 2020 Hölstein edition watch.
“A watch is an object and has no gender,” then ventures Arthur Touchot, head of digital strategy at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. “It only becomes gendered when it touches someone’s skin. In the auction world, if you look at catalogues, you can search watches by brand or price range, but no auction house presents watches as male or female.”
And you know what? Many in the industry also believe that this way of thinking among the manufacturers is an effective way to narrow the dialogue of ‘what to buy’ among watch appreciators everywhere.
But where the idea is most entrenched, in the U.S. market, for example, brands are more likely to talk about sizes, whether the watch is gem-set or not, if it’s quartz or mechanical and the idea that the customer should feel comfortable with the watch on their wrist, regardless of their gender.
Perhaps to reduce any stigma attached to shopping across the gender line, some watch companies are even removing gender designations altogether. Instead of offering a men’s line of large watches, and a women’s line of smaller, more glittery items, there are now companies beginning to sort their watches into gender-neutral, size-based categories instead.
After all, the evolution of the wristwatch is only about a hundred years old, so it is quite new. During those hundred or so odd years, the wristwatch has gone through miniaturisation, complications, and movements have evolved. Initially, perhaps, the industry had to explain why people should be wearing watches and possibly at some point, there was the need to show the difference between a man’s watch and a woman’s watch.
Another unifying factor is the general appreciation of smaller watches these days. And from the broader perspective of collecting, women buyers are now a much larger part of watch houses’ audience.
Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak.
While it’s easy to confuse gender-neutral fashion with androgyny, the latter is an important subset of blurring the lines between the two sexes. Women’s fashion has borrowed elements from men’s lines and perhaps the best example would be Coco Chanel pioneering trousers for the independent, modern women in the 1920s, for whom comfort trumped the elaborate and often submissive trappings of Victorian clothing. And Coco always propagated the idea that ‘a person should express themselves on how they feel, and not how their gender supposedly tells them to feel.’
Watchmaking has also undergone several transitions when it comes to embracing gender neutrality in all its being. While there was a time when women had to settle for ‘bijoux timepieces’, serving more as ornaments and not necessarily as precise timekeeping instruments, this eventually gave way to companies crafting watches with quartz movements in a bid to offer more options with some gravitas. But these, too, conformed to notions of being small in size or they were merely pared-down versions of existing men’s lines.
However, over the last few years, one witnessed a surge in women donning men’s timepieces, which established the fact that they were ready to go beyond the restrictive 28mm for their watches, and they wanted the real deal: A high-end mechanical movement to boot.
Such shifts and reconsiderations of long- standing segmentation methods appear largely in response to younger consumers’ preferences. Best of all, according to some studies within the industry, up to 35 percent of Gen Z respondents also prefer to communicate in gender-neutral language. They object to limiting the gender options available on forms to “male” and “female,” and they find marketing that uses such categories insufficient and inapplicable to their lives.
INDUSTRY RESPONDS WITH GUSTO
More and more watch brands are starting to recognise the importance of developing watches for all individuals, regardless of gender. Audemars Piguet recently revealed its Mini Royal Oak – 23mm models that are an interpretation of the 20 mm Mini Royal Oak launched back in 1997. As seen on the wrists of rappers and musicians, these petite creations exude a discreet stylish effect, befitting the quiet luxury trend.
Zenith recently launched a range of unisex watches designed to be worn by anyone. Other brands are famed for gender-neutral designs that anyone can wear. Such efforts reflect the changing attitudes towards gender in society.
The focus is on creating timepieces that suit personal preferences and styles rather than being restricted to traditional gender norms. As a result, one can witness a wave of innovation and creativity in the horological world right now, where brands are pushing boundaries to create versatile models to suit changing attitudes and styles.
Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak.
What’s more, this new breed of watches often edits out excessive adornment in favour of a more streamlined design, making them suitable for everyday wear. For example, brands like Nomos Glashütte and Bell & Ross have created unisex watch collections that embody each brand’s philosophy, showcasing oh-so-trendy minimalist designs and robust features that appeal to both men and women.
Nomos Tetra and Club models which are excellent examples of gender-neutral watches focusing on functionality. Of course, then there’s also the Bell & Ross’ BR 03-92 Diver Blue which offers a straightforward and durable design that caters to divers of any gender. Indeed, with their emphasis on more ergonomic details, unisex watches have become desirable for those who prefer substance over style.
Then, there’s also the likes of Cartier, Bulgari and Jaeger-LeCoultre. These celebrated manufacturers have also successfully incorporated gender-neutral collections into their repertoire. Cartier’s Santos, originally designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, has evolved into a unisex icon. Its sleek, minimalistic design and seamless integration of form and function have garnered a massive following across genders.
Meanwhile, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo series also stands out, featuring an ultra-thin, geometric design. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso collection, with its iconic reversible dial, is another example of the success of gender-neutral watches. The watch was initially created for polo players, but its versatility and timeless design have made it a popular choice for men and women alike.
SIGN OF THE TIMES
But really now… are the traditional and often somewhat reductive categories imposed by gender really relevant to those who love watches?
Why should those who love unique timepieces confine themselves to a certain range when the choice of a watch is essentially based on the use one wishes to make of it, with the corresponding style? In fashion, gender fluidity and the multiplication of “no gender” collections did not wait until 2024 to shift its goalposts, as actor Timothée Chalamet had already created plenty of buzz by opting to walk the red carpet in a glittering outfit from the women’s spring-summer 2022 collection by Louis Vuitton, opening up a big wide world of possibilities.
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For years, watches have been marketed primarily to men, with women’s watches often seen as secondary. Thus, a situation where men’s watches are often highly valued and sought after, while women’s watches often come as an afterthought has been created.
By creating gender-neutral timepieces, suppose brands are challenging such imbalance. The availability of unisex watches also encourages consumers to think differently about how they choose and wear watches. It is an important step forward for the industry and is helping to create a more inclusive and diverse horological world.
Best of all, this gender-bender wave has created innovation and creativity in the watch industry. Brands are recognising the importance of inclusivity and creating watches that anyone can wear, regardless of gender. The unisex trend also puts the spotlight on watches with special diameters. They look neither small nor large. Instead, unisex models usually have a case size of 38mm or 39mm, which is why they fit so many wrists.
Just remember—from classic designs in gold and stainless steel to sporty timepieces and even smartwatches—unisex watches are not limited to predefined styles. What sets unisex pieces apart is their size, and being smaller means easy integration with other trends right now, such as the cotton candy trend, which focuses on bright colours, or the special dials trend, focusing on elaborately decorated dials.
With the unisex trend, there’s all the benefits of unmatched variety in horological styles.
