A Year Of Icons: Inside The Watches That Defined GPHG 2025

The Oscars of watchmaking and the stars that stole the show.

Geneva glowed a little brighter this November. The 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) — the “Oscars of watchmaking” — gathered the industry’s most respected names under one roof. Collectors, artisans, and maison leaders filled the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices with an electricity that only true craft can inspire.

This year felt different: bolder, more emotional, and deeply rooted in legacy. Each winning watch carried a story shaped by heritage and reimagined with modern vision. Together, they painted a portrait of watchmaking as both art and evolution — a world where precision meets poetry, where every detail is a tribute to human ingenuity. Here are the creations that defined the 2025 ceremony.

Bvlgari’s Ultra-Thin Triumph

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Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon — Tourbillon Watch Prize

Bvlgari set a bold tone with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, which won the Tourbillon Watch Prize. At just 1.85 mm thick, it stands as the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon. The watch feels almost impossible in its execution. Light flows through its skeletonised architecture, creating contrasts that shift with every movement. Polished slopes, rhodium-plated elements, and a sunburst bridge add depth. Jean-Christophe Babin captured the maison’s spirit when he said, “Each record has been a stepping stone… redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking.” The piece is a manifesto in ultra-thin engineering and artistic restraint.

Dior’s Floral Fantasy

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La D de Dior Buisson Couture — Jewellery Watch Prize

Dior offered an entirely different expression of artistry with the La D de Dior Buisson Couture, winner of the Jewellery Watch Prize. The watch channels Christian Dior’s love for gardens and blossoms under Victoire de Castellane’s direction. A rose-gold dial fully set with rubies, pink sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds creates a miniature landscape of colour and texture. The gem-set crown blooms elegantly, while hidden floral motifs on the caseback add quiet poetry for the wearer alone. The piece feels like a jewel in motion: alive, feminine, and dreamlike.

Chopard’s Dual Glory

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Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF — Sports Watch Prize
IMPERIALE Four Seasons — Ladies’ Complication Prize

Chopard enjoyed a dual victory. The Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF won the Sports Watch Prize with its ceramicised titanium case and high-frequency 01.14-C calibre. The “Pitch Black” dial glows with subtle orange accents, giving the watch a sleek, modern attitude. Chopard’s second win came through the IMPERIALE Four Seasons, which secured the Ladies’ Complication Prize. The white-gold case sparkles with diamonds, while an intricate rotating disc tracks the seasons through the L.U.C 96.31-L calibre. The transitions feel poetic, turning time into a quiet dance. These accolades extend Chopard’s long history of GPHG success.

Audemars Piguet’s Anniversary Masterpiece

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar — Iconic Watch Prize

Audemars Piguet marked its 150th anniversary with a win for the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which received the Iconic Watch Prize. The watch pairs 18-carat sand gold with a monochrome Grande Tapisserie dial that shifts between warm and cool tones. Inside, the new Calibre 7138—a movement protected by five patents—simplifies adjustments through an all-in-one crown system. The perpetual calendar indications sit on a single plane, improving clarity and balance. CEO Ilaria Resta described the win as a privilege, reinforcing the maison’s long-standing commitment to collaboration and craft.

Daniel Roth’s Masterclass in Restraint

Extra Plat Rose Gold — Time-Only Watch Prize

Daniel Roth continued its refined revival with the Extra Plat Rose Gold, winner of the Time-Only Watch Prize. The design returns to the brand’s signature double-ellipse case, now slimmed to 7.7 mm. The dial pairs white gold and rose gold with engraved pinstripes guilloché, creating a quiet interplay of textures. Inside, the new DR002 calibre reveals technical strength through a free-sprung balance, a 65-hour reserve, and hand-finished details. The watch feels understated yet rich in intention—a tribute to Daniel Roth’s early work in ultra-thin watchmaking.

Gérald Genta’s Fiery Revival

Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal — Ladies’ Watch Prize

Gérald Genta brought fire and emotion to the evening with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal, winner of the Ladies’ Watch category. The yellow-gold case is set with 137 screwed fire-opal gems. Their warm tones echo across the orange cornelian dial, creating an energy that feels alive. The design traces back to 1994 when Genta sketched a sea urchin during a holiday in Corsica. Artistic Director Matthieu Hegi channels that history while adding fresh vibrancy. Inside, a refined Zenith Elite movement beats beneath a custom 18-karat mass, blending sculptural expression with mechanical finesse.

ZENITH’s Starry Tribute to Precision

G.F.J. Calibre 135 — Chronometry Prize

ZENITH was among the list of major winners with the Chronometry Prize for the G.F.J., a tribute to the maison’s deep legacy in precision timekeeping. The watch features the re-engineered Calibre 135, the most awarded chronometer movement in history. A large balance wheel, Breguet overcoil, stop-seconds function, and 72-hour reserve ensure remarkable accuracy. The platinum case surrounds a lapis-lazuli dial flecked with golden inclusions, evoking a starry sky. A brick-pattern guilloché motif around the edge nods to ZENITH’s Manufacture in Le Locle. CEO Benoît de Clerck described the recognition as deeply meaningful, honouring 160 years of exacting craftsmanship.

The Art of Time

Together, these seven watches define GPHG 2025. They show the breadth of today’s horology—from technical audacity to sculptural beauty, from poetic complication to rigorous chronometry. They remind us that watchmaking remains a living art, shaped by passion, innovation, and legacy. These creations do more than measure time. They move it forward.

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