When Tetsuya Wakuda first set foot in Sydney in 1982, he arrived with little more than a small suitcase, limited English, and an insatiable curiosity for food. The young man from Hamamatsu, a quiet town in Japan’s Shizuoka prefecture, was stepping into uncharted territory — both geographically and professionally.
He had no formal culinary training, no connections in the restaurant industry. What he did have was a spirit of adventure and determination that would come to define a remarkable career spanning over four decades. “I didn’t start out intending to be a chef,” Wakuda reflects. “I was working in trading — import and export. But I always wanted to travel, to find something different. When I arrived in Australia, I entered the food industry almost by accident.” That “accident” became the foundation for an extraordinary culinary philosophy, a distinctive fusion of Japanese precision and French technique.
Wakuda’s first kitchen job was under a French-trained chef who pushed him to innovate, challenging him to create a consommé infused with Japanese dashi. “It was the first time I thought, ‘What if I combine these traditions?’ That mindset still drives me today.”
ON THE CULINARY MAP
Waku Ghin Bar and Main Dining Room.
With this fusion ethos, Wakuda opened his first restaurant in Sydney. It was here that he earned acclaim for dishes that respected the integrity of ingredients while exploring new flavour dimensions. The restaurant quickly became a magnet for discerning diners, including many from Singapore who would later become key to his expanding presence in Southeast Asia.
Years later, an invitation to explore Marina Bay Sands in Singapore led to the birth of Waku Ghin — Wakuda’s celebrated flagship in the city’s iconic integrated resort. The opportunity came almost by chance. “I was invited to take a look at the project. Honestly, it was by chance and I really didn’t think much of it at first,” he says. “I saw the model of the building, the vision clicked. Before I knew it, we had two restaurants here.”
Refined Japanese cuisine.
Waku Ghin is a living expression of Wakuda’s culinary journey and Japanese heritage. Its menus draw on seasonal ingredients sourced meticulously from Japanese prefectures — Toyama kanburi, prized Hokkaido uni, and the wasabi from Wakuda’s hometown in Shizuoka, among others. The dishes unfold in an intimate setting designed by award-winning Japanese designer Yohei Akao, whose use of natural materials and traditional craftsmanship mirrors the chef’s own attention to detail.
WAKUDA’s main dining room.
A majestic two-tonne stone sculpture at the entrance sets the tone, while the Chef’s Table room features a bespoke dining table forged from Kaba Zakura (Japanese cherry wood), handcrafted by master carpenters. Central to the dining experience are signature dishes of the chef such as the Confit of Tasmanian Ocean Trout.
Often dubbed the most photographed dish in the world, it represents the perfect marriage of simplicity, technique, and storytelling. “It was special to serve this dish outside Australia for the first time,” Wakuda notes. The delicate trout, sourced from Tasmania, recalls his early days when seasonal fish availability shaped his menus and inspired travel to source the finest produce.
STARS AND RECOGNITION
Uni Nigiri.
Yet, beyond the accolades — including Michelin stars maintained for years and recent Black Diamond awards — Wakuda remains grounded in humility and a relentless pursuit of improvement. “Recognition means we have to work even harder,” he says. “It’s not just for us, but for the team and the next generation of chefs. We have a responsibility to uphold the standards and push forward.”
Cold Capellini Pasta.
Wakuda emphasises that running a world-class restaurant is a collective effort. “A restaurant doesn’t run on just one person. Good communication between front and back of house is essential. I’m lucky to have a strong, dedicated team.” His philosophy extends to adapting to different markets. “Even with the same concept, tastes vary from city to city. We respect local preferences while staying true to our core.”
This adaptability is crucial in an era of evolving dining habits. Wakuda observes a shift away from formal, extended tasting menus to shorter, more approachable experiences. “Diners today want excellent food but less formality. Smaller menus, faster service, smart casual dining — that’s the trend now.” This pragmatic approach reflects his belief that great cuisine should be accessible without losing its soul.
HEART OF A CHEF
While Wakuda’s professional life revolves around Japanese and French culinary traditions, his personal palate includes a fondness for Italian cuisine. “Japanese and Italian cooking share simplicity, quality ingredients, and straightforward techniques,” he explains. At home, he enjoys preparing Italian dishes that resonate with his values — fresh, honest, and carefully executed.
Looking to the future, Wakuda remains energised by curiosity and the potential for growth. “I’m still learning every day. The culinary world changes constantly, and so must we. Collaboration, respect, and innovation are key.” He also recognises the importance of passing on knowledge. “We owe it to the next generation to inspire and nurture talent.”
From a kitchen hand in Sydney to a global culinary icon, Tetsuya Wakuda’s journey is a testament to passion, perseverance, and the power of food as a cultural bridge. Through his restaurants WAKUDA and Waku Ghin, and his evolving philosophy, the chef continues to craft experiences that celebrate tradition while embracing the future. If anything, he offers an open invitation for diners to come in and not only savour but to connect deeply with the story behind every dish.
(Images: Marina Bay Sands)
