Roger Dubuis celebrates three decades of horological excellence with the introduction of the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar. This sophisticated timepiece bridges the brand’s pioneering past and its bold, future-focused vision.
Since its founding in 1995, Roger Dubuis has been dedicated to creating exceptional watches that are distinct in design and mechanical complexity. The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar pays homage to the Maison’s origins, drawing inspiration from the brand’s first release in 1996, while incorporating modern elements and craftsmanship.
Poetry In Motion
The standout feature of this new model is the Bi-Retrograde display, a hallmark of Roger Dubuis’ early innovations. This distinctive system, which requires a complex arrangement of cams, rakes, clicks, and springs, allows the calendar hands to gracefully move along a semi-circular scale before returning to zero, creating an elegant, choreographed motion.
This signature mechanism, first simplified and modernised by Roger Dubuis and watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht in the 1980s, continues to captivate watch enthusiasts with its precision and artistry. The intricate movement is enhanced in this latest release, with skeletonised hands that beautifully highlight the watch’s inner mechanics.
Inside the watch, the Calibre RD840 automatic movement powers the timepiece, offering a 60-hour power reserve. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, wearers can admire the oscillating weight, which mirrors the style of the Maison’s first weight introduced in 1996 but updated for modern sensibilities.
Luxurious And Refined
Crafted with the finest materials, the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar features a 40mm 18K pink gold case paired with a white mother-of-pearl dial. These materials have been associated with Roger Dubuis since the early 2000s, when the Maison was one of the first to incorporate pink gold and mother-of-pearl into men’s watches.
The dial’s iridescent finish, combined with the richness of pink gold, creates a stunning visual effect that is both luxurious and timeless. The watch is completed with a 3D calf-skin leather strap in brown, featuring an interchangeable pink gold triple-folding clasp for added comfort and style.
The design of the watch stays true to Roger Dubuis’ signature aesthetic. The dial is symmetrically balanced, with the Bi-Retrograde scales placed on either side, while the Small Seconds counter at 6 o’clock aligns neatly with the BIRETROGRADE CALENDAR inscription at 12 o’clock. These details, along with the Geneva Seal emblem, honour the Maison’s heritage and its pursuit of perfection in every piece.
(Images: Roger Dubuis)