KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY

It is rare for a family business to survive past the second generation, let alone four as Victor Mayer has. The Peak speaks to Okan Karagöl, Commercial Director of Victor...

ThePeak_luxury_KeepingItintheFamily

I discovered my passion for high jewellery after I joined Victor Mayer as a commercial director 15 years ago. To see such beautiful creations everyday will naturally stir such emotion in anyone. I think this is the experience of many people in the industry. Even after so many years, I still find high jewellery fascinating.

Victor Mayer was founded in 1890. Next year, we will be celebrating our 125th anniversary. Of course, there have been hard times over four generations. But from the beginning, our founder, Victor Mayer, strived to keep the family ties strong. He never lost his optimism and belief in the future, and, like many who hail from Germany’s Black Forest region, he was industrious and hardworking. I believe it was these values, which he ensured were passed down to future generations, that allowed Victor Mayer to endure and even survive two World Wars.

Many of the techniques used in creating our pieces are no longer taught today. In Germany, we have an apprenticeship system where students have the opportunity to learn a professional craft after they finish school. However, the techniques required to create our jewellery pieces, such as enamelling, guilloché and hand-engraving, are no longer taught in schools. So we’ve had to pass down these skills to each new generation of artisans and craftsmen completely in-house. How we have preserved this pool of knowledge since our founding, well, that is the secret of Victor Mayer.

The style of enamelling we use is identical to that used in the old churches and cathedrals of Europe. The vibrant colour comes from mixing different minerals in the glass at a temperature of 800ºC. This mixture is then painted onto a gold or glass surface entirely by hand. When you look at the glass-stained windows in churches, you get the impression that they are new but, in fact, are hundreds of years old. Enamel will never lose its shine or intensity, and that’s what makes it so special.

Tradition doesn’t mean old-fashioned, and it’s important that we always keep pushing the boundaries of innovation. While the traditional techniques are still largely done by hand, we are continuously finding ways to improve our production process, and modern technology, such as laser-cutting and 3D design, plays a big role in our work. The greatest challenge is striking that delicate balance between these two worlds.

Victor Mayer has always had a very close relationship with its customers. It is a relationship based on trust and respect. Not only is this hugely important to the business as a whole, it also makes the entire process much more enjoyable. Also, receiving positive feedback firsthand from our clients is a great source of pride. It makes all the hard work that goes into designing and creating our pieces worth it.

The year 2014 was tough for the luxury industry. In Europe, there have been plenty of negative influences, such as the Russia-Ukraine crisis. These countries, in addition to the former members of the Soviet Union, are very important markets for us. As a result, many of our customers suffered and business everywhere slowed significantly. But we remain optimistic about the future as we have compensated for this slowdown in Europe with growth in other markets. Going forward, I hope that the international community can find a peaceful resolution to the crises across the world in 2015.

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