Presented at Baselworld 2017, the Calatrava “Squelette” Ref 5180/1R from Patek Philippe is an ornate ode to the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 movement that celebrates its 40th year. In 18K rose gold 5N, the timepiece showcases the hand-engraved Calibre 240 SQU self-winding mechanical movement beautifully by skeletonising it. Housed inside a 39 mm rose-gold Calatrava case, the movement is decorated in vivid arabesques and volutes, while the coiled mainspring is visible beneath the pierced contour of the Calatrava cross. Around this iconic symbol is the barrel frame engraved with the words “Patek Philippe Genève”, while the PP logo of the Patek Philippe Seal makes its first appearance on the 22K gold mini rotor. Surrounding this ornate movement is an 18K rose gold 5N ring that is also skeletonised to form 12 spokes that serve as hour markers. The Calatrava “Squelette” Ref 5180/1R is paired with a supple bracelet in 18K rose gold that is secured with a fold-over clasp.
The Calatrava Cross
The Calatrava cross that sits on the crown of Patek Philippe watches today dates back to the 1870s and is the emblem of the Order of Calatrava, a military order of the Catholic Church. Antoine Norbert de Patek was a fervent Catholic, and was knighted as a count around 1865 by the Republic of San Marino and recognised by the Vatican for his role in supporting the Holy See. The Calatrava Cross was registered as a logo for Patek Philippe on 27 April 1887.